Our Peru Trip: From Initial Hesitation to September Departure
Peru and the Inca Trail were never on my travel bingo card. But in April 2025, my wife said this was the trip she really wanted to do. My first reaction? “Okay… sure.” I hadn’t pictured myself there, but like every other adventure we’ve taken, the planning kicked off.
This comprehensive guide covers Part 1 of our September 2025 Peru adventure: arrival in Cusco, Sacred Valley day trips, Sacsayhuamán fortress, and the challenging Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain hike. The full Inca Trail experience continues in Part 2.
Planning Our September Peru Itinerary
Once we locked in a tour company, the emails started flying as we dialed in our September 13–28 itinerary. Based on my research, September in Cusco hits the sweet spot: sunny days, crisp nights, and way fewer crowds than peak season. After tackling the Inca Trail under clear skies, I honestly can’t imagine doing it with rain pouring down.
Cusco Altitude Adjustment
We gave ourselves five days in Cusco to adjust to the altitude. At roughly 11,152 feet, the elevation demands respect, so we were determined not to let altitude sickness derail a trip of a lifetime.
Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you book through them, at no additional cost to you. I only recommend places and experiences I personally trust.
I specifically chose the Boutique Golden Garden Hotel because it sits away from Plaza de Armas. That main square is the heartbeat of Cusco, buzzing nonstop with locals and tourists, but I wanted something quieter. The trade-off? It’s on a hill, so you feel every uphill step.
Why United + LATAM Made the Most Sense
We looked at flying LATAM directly from LAX to Lima, but the numbers didn’t justify it. Their nonstop runs about 8.5 hours, yet fares often start in the $700+ range. United, on the other hand, consistently priced lower for our dates, even with the connection. So we stuck with United.
The trade‑off is timing: United usually lands in Lima close to midnight, which means an unavoidable overnight layover before heading to Cusco. From there, we grabbed one of LATAM’s early‑morning flights, ours was the 5:15 AM departure, part of their regular pre‑dawn block. Reliable, yes. Gentle, absolutely not.
In the end, United + LATAM was the most practical combo for cost and scheduling, even if it meant starting the Cusco day on very little sleep.
Arrival in Cusco
Arriving in Cusco was straightforward enough; we’d booked transport through Booking.com, so the ride was lined up. Well, sort of. It took some back and forth with the driver before we finally connected, but eventually we were on our way.
Boutique Golden Garden Hotel: First Impressions
We hit the hotel lobby around 7:30 AM. The front desk staff couldn’t have been more welcoming. I explained we were early, asked about early check-in, and let them know we’d be leaving our bags to explore and grab breakfast. Their reply was a simple, “Of course.” The Boutique Golden Garden set the tone for a great start in Cusco, and I can’t recommend it enough.
No first visit feels complete without sipping coca tea in the lobby; it’s the perfect way to ease into both the altitude and the vibe of the city.
First Steps: Jet Lag Meets Ancient Stones
Walking toward Green Point for our first meal, we stopped by the famous Twelve Angled Stone. My wife doesn’t handle jet lag well; if you can’t tell from the photo, this was barely 90 minutes after landing.
Afterward, we made our way back toward the hotel, stopping to admire the classic Cusco streetscape, massive Inca stone foundations topped with lighter Spanish colonial walls.
We’d hoped for early check-in but had to wait until about an hour before the official check-in time of 12PM. Not ideal after an overnight layover and early flight, but better than nothing.
Exploring Cusco Before Dinner
Essential Stop: 10-Day Tourist Ticket
After resting, we headed back out for dinner. First stop was the Centro Cultural to buy our 10-day tourist ticket; a no-brainer since we’d already planned visits to Sacsayhuamán and the Sacred Valley, or any of the major archaeological sites.
Dinner at Chull’s
Dinner was at Chull’s, pricey but with good food and courtyard seating. The entrance, however, is confusing. You walk through a small cluster of shops into a larger courtyard filled with more shops, where one entire side belongs to a different restaurant. When I approached someone setting tables and mentioned our reservation, she looked confused. “Chull’s?” I asked. “Oh no, we’re Tejas y Piedras,” she replied. A strange layout that makes for an awkward arrival, but once seated, the experience improves.
A Quick Stroll and a Few Shops
Walking back, we stopped in a few shops and bought postcards from an overly eager vendor. Don’t be fooled; they spot tourists instantly, and prices magically inflate the moment they see you coming.
Meeting Quechua Women With Baby Alpacas
Just before reaching the hotel, we encountered two Quechua women, or cholitas, dressed in their vibrant traditional Andean outfits. They’re part of the city’s living culture, proudly representing Peru’s Indigenous heritage while earning a livelihood by offering tourists the chance to snap a photo with them. In this instance, they both were holding a baby alpaca. Those little creatures are impossibly cute; we couldn’t resist the photo opportunity. Be warned, these cholitas will wear you down for more money, so make sure you agree on a price, no matter how adorable the baby alpacas are.
Sacred Valley Tour: A Full Day Through Inca Heartland
The Classic Sacred Valley Circuit
The Sacred Valley is an absolute must for any Cusco visit. Most tours hit the same circuit, and ours was no different: Chinchero, Maras Salt Mines, Moray, Ollantaytambo, and a viewpoint stop. You’re looking at a full day, but the constantly shifting landscape from rugged mountains to sweeping valleys keeps it interesting.
Touring with Alex
We’d booked a private tour with Alex Great Tours Peru. He’s been guiding since his teens, and it shows, tons of insight, an easygoing personality, and just a great guy to spend the day with.
We started in Chinchero for the traditional weaving demonstrations, then continued on to the Maras Salt Mines, Moray, and finally Ollantaytambo. After saying goodbye to our Canadian companions, they stayed overnight to catch the early train, we made the quiet drive back to Cusco.
My only regret? We didn’t make it to Pisac. I’ve heard the ruins are impressive and the market is one of the best in the valley, but you simply can’t fit everything into one day.
Back to Cusco: Local Pollo
Back in Cusco, we had just enough time for some light shopping before dinner. Los Toldos Chicken was highly recommended, but unfortunately after two different occasions, it just didn’t come close to wowing us. Read my review here.
The route moves quickly, but each stop has its own character. Below is a quick breakdown of what we saw along the way.
Chinchero
First stop was Chinchero’s weaving cooperative. While I knew what to expect from my research, actually watching the traditional weaving demonstrations was interesting, especially seeing how they still use bugs and plants to create those vibrant dyes. The women working there are master craftspeople, and the level of detail in their work is impressive.
The sales pitch comes at the end, but honestly, the hand-woven designs are impressive enough that resistance is futile. I walked out with three pieces of alpaca clothing. They sent us off with a traditional show and dance, which was entertaining and felt authentic rather than touristy.
You can also watch this part of the journey in my video here Sacred Valley Tour – Chinchero
Maras Salt Mines
The Maras Salt Mines look surreal; thousands of white salt pools cascading down the mountainside like some alien landscape. These pools have been harvested since Inca times, and families still own and work specific pools today. Fair warning: it’s a decent walk down, and at altitude, the walk back up hits harder than you expect.
Moray
Moray was the surprise of the day. These circular agricultural terraces drop down like a massive amphitheater, and the Incas used them as an agricultural laboratory, testing crops at different elevations and microclimates. The temperature difference between top and bottom can be 15°C. Standing at the edge, looking down into these perfect concentric circles, you realize the Incas were way more sophisticated than most people give them credit for.
Ollantaytambo
The Ollantaytambo Archaeological site was our final stop, and those stairs to top are brutal at altitude. To which our guide said he believed I would struggle and might not make it on the Inca Trail. Jeez, thanks for the encouragement and vote of confidence.
The site itself is impressive; massive stone terraces climbing up the mountainside, with a temple complex at the top that was never finished. The stones for this place came from a quarry on the opposite mountain, across the valley and river. How they moved those massive blocks remains a mystery.
You can also watch this part of the journey in the series of Shorts below:
- Ollantaytambo From Above
- Ollantaytambo Sun Gate
- Ollantaytambo Ramp & Valley
- Ollantaytambo Town Square
Along the way
The drive to the Sacred Valley winds through Cusco’s neighborhoods before gradually turning rural. Along the way, you pass scenes of everyday Peruvian life, outdoor markets setting up for the day, vendors arranging their goods, and people already moving with purpose as they head to work or run errands.
Once you leave the city behind, the landscape opens into sweeping valleys and dramatic mountain views.
Sacsayhuamán: A Must‑See Above Cusco
Our hotel’s proximity to Sacsayhuamán was both a blessing and a curse; close enough to walk, but entirely uphill at 11,000+ feet. Still, no visit to Cusco is complete without standing among those ancient stones. The site sits high above the city, offering one of the best panoramic views in the region; red-tiled roofs spreading out below, mountains wrapping around the valley like a protective wall.
The real impact hits when you approach the massive stone terraces. Some of these boulders weigh over 100 tons, yet the Incas fitted them together so precisely you can’t slide paper between the seams. Every visitor must have the same thought: how did they manage this without modern tools? The achievement feels almost impossible.
Even in its partially ruined state, Sacsayhuamán radiates power. This was once both a ceremonial and military complex, and the zigzagging walls, wide-open spaces, and wind sweeping across the hilltop demand you slow down and take it all in.
You can also watch this part of the journey in this Short here: Sacsayhuamán
Cristo Blanco
A short walk along a well-worn path brought us to Cristo Blanco, a large white statue of Christ overlooking Cusco. It’s a quick stop, but the panoramic city views make it worthwhile.
After soaking in the sights, we returned to the hotel to rest before venturing to San Pedro Market. If you want to shop for local goods and get a feel for everyday Cusco life, this is the place.
Enjoy panoramic views of Cusco from Cristo Blanco in this Short: Cristo Blanco Viewpoint
Palcoyo: The Alternative Rainbow Mountain
Why Palcoyo Over Vinicunca
A 4:30 AM wake-up for a 5:30 AM departure kicked off our Palcoyo day trip. When most people think of Peru’s Rainbow Mountain, they picture Vinicunca, the famous striped peak flooding Instagram feeds. We chose Palcoyo instead, drawn by its simpler hike, less crowds and the chance to see the surreal stone forest alongside the rainbow ridges.
The Hike: “Easier” is Relative at 17,000 Feet
At first, it seemed like the easier option. The trail is shorter and less steep than Vinicunca. Don’t let that fool you, Palcoyo still tested every ounce of our willpower. The cold bit hard, the altitude was unforgiving, and each step felt like losing vital breath.
We pushed forward anyway. Step by step, breath by breath, we made it to the top. The reward? A landscape painted in natural colors, three rainbow ridges stretching across the horizon, and the eerie beauty of the stone forest. Worth every struggle.
Palcoyo may be the “simpler” Rainbow Mountain, but it’s no less powerful an experience.
Getting There: Four Hours Each Way
The drive from Cusco takes about four hours, with the return stretching longer thanks to bathroom and lunch stops. Our driver wasn’t the chatty type, he pointed out where to go and left us to it.
Authentic Lunch Stop
Lunch turned out to be a classic Menú del Día, the kind of spot you find all over Peru: simple tables, a fixed-price spread of soup, a main, and a drink, all for a bargain. We grabbed seats alongside three locals. Small talk wasn’t on the menu but sharing that meal was a cool experience. We obviously stood out as outsiders, but that made the moment even more memorable.
You can also watch this part of the journey in the series of Shorts below:
Exploring Cusco: The Regional Historical Museum
Recovering in the Historic Center
After conquering Rainbow Mountain, we were completely drained. We decided to take it slow; wandering through Cusco’s streets, checking out a few museums with our Tourist Ticket, and just soaking in the city.
Cusco feels alive in every corner. Colonial architecture mixed with modern shops, street vendors lining the plazas selling everything from alpaca scarves to fresh fruit. It’s vibrant, chaotic, and somehow it all works.
Regional Historical Museum: Beyond the Inca Story
One Tourist Ticket stop was the Regional Historical Museum, housed since 1967 in the former residence of chronicler Inca Garcilaso de la Vega. The museum had bounced between buildings since 1946, but this location finally provided proper space to display Cusco’s complex history.
Most tourists focus solely on Inca heritage, but this museum reveals how Cusco isn’t just about one empire. Colonial and republican periods left distinct marks, layer upon layer shaping the modern city.
The ground floor covers pre-Inca cultures most visitors never hear about. Upstairs, colonial paintings steal the show. Cusco School artists created a fascinating hybrid style: Catholic religious themes mixed with Andean symbolism. Virgin Mary paintings depict her triangular dress mimicking sacred mountains, Christianity adapted to local beliefs.
Túpac Amaru II: When Rebellion Reached the Plaza
The museum doesn’t sanitize the brutal chapters. One powerful section covers Túpac Amaru II, who led the Americas’ largest indigenous uprising in 1780. Born José Gabriel Condorcanqui, he claimed descent from the last Inca rulers and initially worked within Spanish systems, until watching his people suffer became unbearable.
His rebellion nearly succeeded, commanding tens of thousands across Peru and Bolivia. On May 18, 1781, the Spanish executed him in the Plaza de Armas, the same square where tourists now sip coffee. They forced him to watch his wife and son die first, then attempted to tear him apart with horses. When that failed: beheading.
The brutality made him a resistance symbol that still resonates today.
Qorikancha: The Inca Empire’s Most Sacred Temple
Where Gold Met God
A short walk south along Avenida El Sol brought us to Qorikancha, the place where Inca spirituality and Spanish colonial ambition collided in the most dramatic way.
The Inca Masterpiece
Qorikancha, known in Quechua as Quri Kancha, “Golden Enclosure”, was the spiritual center of the Inca world. Dedicated primarily to Inti, the sun god, its interior once gleamed with sheets of gold that reflected sunlight throughout the temple complex. Chroniclers also described golden statues and a “golden garden,” reinforcing its role as the empire’s holiest sanctuary. The surviving stonework, fitted with extraordinary precision and engineered to withstand earthquakes, remains one of the finest examples of Inca architecture.
The Colonial Overlay
After the conquest, the Spanish stripped the temple of its gold and constructed the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo directly atop the Inca foundations. The result is a striking architectural palimpsest: perfectly cut Inca walls supporting colonial arches, cloisters, and courtyards. Walking through the site, you can literally trace the layers of power, faith, and resistance embedded in the stone.
Modern Significance
Today, Qorikancha stands as one of Cusco’s most important cultural landmarks and forms part of the UNESCO‑listed historic city center. It’s a place where Inca cosmology, colonial history, and contemporary Peru intersect, an unforgettable reminder of how civilizations overlap, endure, and transform.
A Standout Dinner at KusyKay
Craft Peruvian Cooking at Its Best
As our Cusco altitude acclimation started to wind down and we mentally prepared for the Inca Trail, we made a point to get out and explore more of the city and its food scene. One standout was Kusykay Peruvian Craft Food, a restaurant with a strong reputation in Cusco’s dining landscape, consistently ranking among the city’s top spots with thousands of excellent reviews.
Kusykay focuses on Andean ingredients, local organic products, and creative interpretations of classic Peruvian dishes, blending tradition with modern culinary technique. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, cozy without feeling cramped, refined without being formal.
Kusykay’s menu showcases a refined take on Peruvian cuisine, with standout dishes like trout ceviche, Andean quinoa soup, and beautifully prepared alpaca loin.
Angie ordered the grilled alpaca loin in a rich port sauce, paired with a creamy yellow-pepper quinotto, a perfect balance of bold and earthy flavors. I went for the Ají de Gallina, a classic Peruvian chicken dish, but this version came with an almond-based chili sauce that added a deeper, velvety richness. Every plate felt thoughtfully composed, rooted in tradition yet elevated with a modern style. Highly recommend!
Traditional Andean Music Outside the Artisan Hall
As the afternoon slipped into evening, we walked past the many storefronts around the Plaza de Armas, doing our usual search for something unique to bring home. A pair of musicians playing traditional Andean folk music caught our attention outside the Benemérita Sociedad de Artesanos del Cusco, so we stopped in and ended up finding a great piece, a ceramic plate painted with a hummingbird and finished with traditional tassels. Very cool find.
The artisan hall is tucked into a small niche next to the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, easy to spot thanks to the musicians out front.
You can also watch this part of the journey in this Short here: Cusco street musicians performing traditional Andean music.
Our last stop for the evening was AB Expeditions’ main office to meet our guide, fellow trekkers, and collect our gear. Back at the hotel, we faced the real challenge: packing everything into a 7kg duffel bag.
Every ounce mattered when porters would be carrying our gear on their backs up and down mountains for five days.
With bags packed, staged, and ready for the 7 AM pickup, there was nothing left but sleep.
Easier said than done when you’re about to hike 26 miles through the Andes to Machu Picchu.
After acclimatizing in Cusco, we tackled the 5-Day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, read the complete trekking itinerary.
Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you book through them, at no additional cost to you. I only recommend places and experiences I personally trust.