Ireland Road Trip Itinerary: 14 Days from Dublin to Belfast

From Dublin’s Streets to Belfast’s Coast: A First-Timer’s 14-Day Journey

In 2022, we finally crossed the Atlantic to Ireland, a place I had long imagined exploring. It wasn’t the trip we originally planned, but after two years of delays and uncertainty, it became exactly the journey we needed.

Back in January 2020, the year had started with big intentions. I wanted to travel more, and by February we had booked my first international adventure: a Rick Steves tour through Turkey to celebrate my 50th birthday. But when the world abruptly shut down in March, those plans disappeared overnight. Like so many others, I watched milestone moments fade into the background as travel became a distant idea.

Two years later, in May 2022, we finally made it across the pond, not to Turkey, but to Ireland. And over 14 days and 1,200 miles, from Dublin’s Trinity College to the Northern Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway, we discovered that sometimes the trip you end up taking is the one you were meant to have all along.

Trip Snapshot:
A 14-day self-drive Ireland road trip designed for first-timers, blending historic cities, coastal scenery, and small towns. Highlights include Dublin, Dingle Peninsula, Connemara, Donegal, the Giant’s Causeway, and Belfast, with overnight stops chosen for walkability and atmosphere.

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Arriving in Dublin – First Impressions of Ireland’s Capital

Dublin is the perfect introduction to Ireland, a blend of centuries-old history, vibrant pub culture, and friendly locals. After touching down at Dublin Airport, we headed to our hotel in the city center to drop off bags and dive straight into exploration. This travel hub offers easy access to iconic sights, historic sites, and authentic Irish experiences.

Dublin City Center Hotel: Why Dame Street Works for First-Timers

We checked into the Dublin Citi Hotel on Dame Street, a central and walkable location that made exploring Dublin a breeze, no transportation needed. After dropping our bags, we took a moment to soak in the city’s energy: buses rumbling past, music drifting from nearby pubs, and the unmistakable buzz of Temple Bar just around the corner.

We headed into the Temple Bar cultural quarter, navigating the uneven cobblestones as we passed shops, pubs, and tempting restaurants at every turn. Our jet-lagged stomachs were demanding attention, so we made our way to Leo Burdock Fish & Chips on Werburgh Street, a Dublin institution since 1913.

The smell hit us before we even walked in, that perfect combination of fried fish and vinegar that signals you’re in the right place. We ordered the classic: cod and chips, wrapped in paper the traditional way. The fish was flaky and fresh, the batter perfectly crispy, and the chips (thick-cut, as they should be) were exactly what we needed after a long travel day.

After our meal and walking outside on to the street, we officially felt like we’d arrived in Ireland.

A Local’s Recommendation: The Long Hall Pub

Our taxi driver from the airport became our first Irish tour guide, enthusiastically pointing out his favorite places to eat, which pubs to skip, and the one spot we absolutely had to visit: The Long Hall, a Victorian pub on South Great George’s Street that’s been serving pints since 1766.

The Long Hall is Dublin pub perfection, ornate carved woodwork, red velvet seating, vintage mirrors, and a mahogany bar that gleams under warm lighting. It’s the kind of place that attracts everyone from locals to celebrities (Bruce Springsteen is a known regular), but more importantly, it feels genuinely Irish, not a tourist trap designed to look the part.

We claimed two seats at the bar that evening and ordered our first proper pints of Guinness. The bartender poured them with the traditional two-part pour, letting each pint settle before topping it off with that perfect creamy head. By the second pint, jet lag was winning the battle, so we headed back to the hotel, ready for an early night before our Trinity College tour the next morning.

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Trinity College Dublin, Book of Kells, Long Room Library, St. Patrick’s Cathedral & Guinness Storehouse

No visit to Dublin is complete without stepping inside Trinity College to see the Book of Kells and the breathtaking Long Room Library.

We arrived early in the morning, and after walking through the stone arch at Trinity College’s entrance, the impressive 100-foot granite bell tower known as the Campanile came into view, calm, perfectly framed, and rising at the center like the campus’s own lighthouse.

An interesting superstition among students is that walking beneath the Campanile while the bells are chiming guarantees exam failure. We lingered for a moment to admire the tower, then continued toward the Old Library entrance.

Visiting the Book of Kells

The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript created by Celtic monks around 800 AD, and seeing it in person is like standing in front of a medieval masterpiece that somehow survived 1,200 years of wars, weather, and human carelessness.

The exhibit begins downstairs with displays explaining the painstaking process: how monks ground minerals and plants into vibrant pigments, prepared animal vellum page by page, and created the intricate Celtic knotwork that would take modern artists months to replicate. Knowing the backstory makes the actual manuscript even more impressive.

The viewing room itself is small and gets crowded quickly, with visitors pressed shoulder-to-shoulder around the glass cases. Only two pages are displayed at a time, rotated regularly to prevent light damage. Even in the crowd, it’s worth taking your time, the detail is astonishing.

Spirals smaller than a fingernail, colors still vivid after twelve centuries, and illuminated letters that look like they were painted yesterday, not in the 9th century.

Exploring the Long Room Library

From the Book of Kells exhibit, visitors are guided upstairs into the Long Room Library, and the moment you step inside, it’s obvious why this is one of the most photographed libraries in the world. The barrel‑vaulted ceiling rises 65 feet overhead, arching above dark oak shelves that hold more than 200,000 of the library’s oldest volumes.

Stretching 213 feet in perfect symmetry, the hall is lined with marble busts of writers and philosophers, washed in soft natural light from high windows, and filled with the unmistakable scent of old books.

Anyone who loves weathered, historic spaces will be drawn to the repeating arches, the shifting light across the shelves, and the sheer sense of scale. Photography is encouraged (no flash), and every angle offers a new perspective, though no picture truly captures the atmosphere.

As we walked the length of the room, we passed marble busts honoring great thinkers from across the centuries. Aristotle, Shakespeare, and Jonathan Swift are among the figures quietly watching over the hall as visitors move through this remarkable space.

Tips for Visiting Trinity College Dublin

• Tickets & Timing
  • Book online in advance—Trinity College Dublin is one of the city’s most popular attractions, and entry times can sell out, especially May–September.
  • Adult tickets: €21–22 (seasonal; check the official site).
  • Arrive at opening (9:30 AM) to avoid cruise ship crowds.
  • Allow 60–90 minutes for the Book of Kells and Long Room Library, plus 30 minutes if exploring the campus grounds.
• Photography
  • Photography is encouraged in the Long Room Library, but no photos are allowed in the Book of Kells viewing area.
  • The hall’s arches, symmetry, and natural light make it a dream for photography—wide-angle lenses are recommended.
• Campus Highlights
  • Your ticket includes access to the historic campus. Don’t miss the Campanile (bell tower) and Library Square.
  • Official campus walking tours are offered through Trinity Trails, led by trained student and alumni guides.
  • Free walking tours often start at Trinity, offering a great way to explore Dublin in one visit.
• Accessibility
  • Step-free access is available in the Old Library via lifts.
  • Allow extra time for accessible routes, which may differ from the main visitor path.

Milestone Tip: The Long Room’s 200,000 books are currently being conserved as part of Trinity’s multi‑year Old Library Redevelopment Project. Many shelves are temporarily empty, giving visitors a rare behind‑the‑scenes look at how historic collections are protected. Trinity has added displays explaining the restoration work, and the Long Room itself remains. Learn more about the Old Library Redevelopment Project

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Exploring Saint Patrick’s Cathedral: Medieval History and the Door of Reconciliation

After a morning at Trinity College, we stepped back into the Dublin sunshine and began the 15‑minute walk toward Saint Patrick’s Cathedral. The route winds through a mix of modern shopfronts and Georgian terraces, the kind of contrast that makes the city so photogenic.

A few blocks out, the cathedral announced itself. Its 141‑foot spire rose above the neighborhood rooftops, a sharp silhouette against the sky. As we got closer, the medieval stone exterior came into view, framed by St. Patrick’s Park and a scattering of centuries‑old graves.

Built in 1191 near the well where Saint Patrick is said to have baptized Ireland’s earliest Christians, it remains the largest church in the country and the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. More than 800 years later, it’s still standing and still spectacular.

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral: 800 Years of Irish History

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral has stood as a Dublin landmark since the 12th century and serves as the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. One of its most notable figures is Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels, who served as dean from 1713 to 1745. His tomb remains inside the cathedral, marked by a simple brass plaque beside that of his close friend Esther Johnson, known as “Stella.”

Swift’s sharp wit endures in his self-written Latin epitaph, which reflects his lifelong defense of liberty. Reading it in place, it becomes clear that Saint Patrick’s Cathedral is not only a religious site, but also a monument to the figures who shaped Ireland’s literary and political history as well.

Inside the Cathedral: Gothic Architecture and a Medieval Door with a Hole

Inside Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, the soaring Gothic arches, stained glass, and centuries-old monuments reflect nearly 800 years of Irish history. As impressive as the interior is, the most memorable feature isn’t grand at all, it’s a simple wooden door with a rectangular hole cut through it.

Known as the Door of Reconciliation, it dates back to 1492, when two feuding Irish families, the Earls of Kildare and Ormond, clashed within the cathedral. Seeking peace, Kildare cut a hole in the door and extended his arm in a risky offer of a handshake. Instead of taking advantage, Ormond accepted, ending the feud.

The door, hole and all, remains on display today, possibly the origin of the phrase “chancing your arm.” Standing before it, you’re reminded how history here isn’t just something you read about, it’s something you can still see and touch.

The Cathedral Grounds and Park

Outside, St. Patrick’s Park offers one of the best views of the cathedral’s exterior. The park has benches, a small fountain, and enough green space to catch your breath before moving on to your next Dublin stop.

From the right angle, you can frame the cathedral’s spire against the sky, one of those classic Dublin shots that’s hard to mess up, even on a cloudy day.

Tips for Visiting Saint Patrick’s Cathedral

• Location & Access
  • Address: St Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8 (Liberties neighborhood)
  • Walking distance: 12 minutes from Temple Bar; 15 minutes from Trinity College
  • Public transport: Bus routes 49, 54A, and 77A stop nearby; also reachable via the Luas Red Line (Jervis stop, then a 10‑minute walk)
• Tickets & Hours
  • Adult admission: €8 (check the official site for current pricing)
  • Opening hours: Monday–Friday 9:30 AM–5:00 PM; Saturday 9:00 AM–6:00 PM; Sunday 9:00 AM–10:30 AM, 12:30 PM–2:30 PM, 4:30 PM–6:00 PM (hours vary during services)
  • Book tickets online to skip the queue
  • Plan for 45–60 minutes inside
• Don’t Miss
  • The Door of Reconciliation (at the chapter house entrance)
  • Jonathan Swift’s tomb and epitaph in the nave
  • The medieval tile floor near the altar
  • St. Patrick’s Park for the best exterior views

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The Guinness Storehouse: Views and Brews at the Gravity Bar

After soaking in the quiet serenity of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, we set off on foot for the next Irish icon on our list: the Guinness Storehouse.

The stroll took us about 20 minutes through the historic Liberties neighborhood. While you can take a bus or a cab, walking is the best way to feel the pulse of the city, and it helps you work up a thirst!

Exploring the Storehouse

The Storehouse sits on the original St. James’s Gate Brewery site, where Guinness has been brewed since 1759. Inside, the building’s central atrium is designed to look like a giant pint glass rising seven stories.

Each floor covers a different piece of the Guinness story: brewing science, advertising history, barrel-making demonstrations, and tasting rooms where you learn the “proper” way to pour a pint.

Is it touristy? Of course. And yes, it gets busy in the mid‑afternoon. But if you’re even mildly curious about how Guinness is made or how Ireland built an entire global identity around it, the experience is genuinely engaging. The self‑guided layout works in your favor too: you can breeze past the sections that don’t grab you and take your time with the ones that do.

The Gravity Bar Experience

The real payoff is the Gravity Bar on the top floor. Your ticket includes one complimentary pint, and the 360-degree views of Dublin through floor-to-ceiling windows are legitimately spectacular. Unfortunately, we had to stand to enjoy our pints as tables and seats were all taken, but the bar’s design still lets you take in Dublin Bay and the Wicklow Mountains in the distance, pint in hand.

Tips for Visiting Guinness Storehouse

• Location: St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8
• Walking Time: 20–25 minutes from Temple Bar; 15 minutes from Christ Church Cathedral
• Transport: From St. Patrick’s Cathedral, it’s about a 20‑minute walk or a short bus ride (routes 13, 40, or 123)
• Admission: Range from €26–32 depending on time and package; prices vary by day and season
• Time Needed: 1.5–2 hours, or about 45 minutes if you’re only visiting the Gravity Bar.
• Best Time to Visit: Morning or late afternoon (midday is busiest)

Milestone Tip: A standard Guinness Storehouse ticket includes a complimentary pint, which you can enjoy at the Gravity Bar with its 360‑degree, floor‑to‑ceiling views over Dublin. Head straight there when you arrive to claim a window seat before exploring the floors below. Mornings tend to be quieter than midday.

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Dining at The Brazen Head: Ireland’s Oldest Pub

After the Guinness Storehouse, we walked 15 minutes to The Brazen Head for our 6 PM dinner reservation. Ireland’s oldest pub (claims date back to 1198, though records are fuzzy) feels every bit as ancient as you’d expect: low ceilings, stone walls, candlelight, and rooms that twist into cozy corners.

The pub has hosted everyone from revolutionaries to writers, and today it’s a lively mix of locals, travelers, and regulars who know exactly where to sit.

Irish Folklore Dinner Experience

We’d booked “An Evening of Food, Folklore and Fairies”, dinner paired with Irish storytelling about leprechauns, banshees, and the fairy folk. The food was classic Irish comfort (beef and Guinness stew, soda bread), but the real entertainment was our storyteller weaving tales of supernatural Ireland.

Mischievous fairies leading travelers astray, the banshee’s death-warning wail, rules for tricking leprechauns, it was half history, half theater, fully entertaining.

2026 Update: This dinner experience “An Evening of Food, Folklore and Fairies” has moved to The Stag’s Head pub. Brazen Head still serves great food and hosts live music, but the folklore dinner is elsewhere now.

Exploring Dublin’s Cultural Quarter

After dinner, we walked to Temple Bar to see Dublin’s most photographed neighborhood. By 9 PM, it was packed with tourists, bachelor parties, and €8 pints. We took photos of the iconic red Temple Bar facade and quickly understood why locals avoid this area.

It’s worth a 15-minute walk-through for the photos, but unless you’re specifically looking for a crowded tourist pub experience, there’s no real reason to go inside. Having checked the box, we headed back to our hotel for an early night, tomorrow marked the start of our Ireland road trip.

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Ireland Road Trip – Dublin to Kinsale with Stops at the Rock of Cashel and Kilkenny

After two days exploring Dublin on foot, it was time to trade sidewalks for country roads. We took a short taxi to the rental car hub and picked up our car from My Irish Cousin.

The whole process was refreshingly straightforward: transparent pricing, full insurance coverage including Northern Ireland, and a patient staff member who walked us through the controls and even offered to move out on t the street facing in the right direction.

Extremely helpful and they did not take my tip. This set the perfect tone for the journey ahead. Leaving Dublin behind, we officially began our Ireland road trip, one that would take us through rolling countryside, medieval towns, coastal villages, and some of the country’s most iconic landscapes.

Driving in Ireland: The Left-Side Reality

Driving on the left takes some getting used to. Everything that used to be automatic suddenly needs your full attention: right-hand steering wheel, left-hand gear shifts, staying left in the lane while your brain keeps screaming, “Wrong side! Wrong side!”

The first 20 minutes of our Ireland road trip were tense. Driving on the left for the first time, I gripped the wheel a little too tightly and drove slower than every Irish driver behind me probably appreciated, while my wife, riding shotgun on the left, kept hollering whenever I drifted toward the curb, a blind spot from the right-side driver’s seat.

I’ll confess, the driving dynamic sparked some good-natured banter between us, but by the time we hit the straight, wide lanes of the M7 motorway heading south, it clicked.

That stretch of road was the perfect “practice zone” before tackling the narrow country roads, and for first-time Ireland road trippers, left-side driving takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s absolutely worth it for the scenic views along the way.

The Drive to Rock of Cashel

The drive from Dublin to the Rock of Cashel is about 100 miles (160 km), a straight shot south on the M7. It took roughly 90 minutes, with a quick stop at a service station for coffee and a bathroom break.

My wife and I were impressed by how clean and spacious Irish service stations are. At one stop, a young staff member, maybe 16, was replacing a panel with a screwdriver. We just stood there thinking, that’s impressive.

As Dublin’s suburbs faded, the landscape opened into the Ireland we’d imagined: rolling green fields divided by ancient stone walls and sheep grazing on hillsides. That’s when we officially felt like we were on our Ireland road trip.

Good to Know: Driving & Renting a Car in Ireland

• Choose a rental company with transparent pricing and full insurance coverage, and includes Northern Ireland.
• Book early to secure better rates and availability of automatic cars (manuals are more common).
• Manual small cars are ideal for narrow country roads; average cost is roughly €30–€50 per day or €200–€350 per week.
• Automatic cars are significantly more expensive, often 30–50% higher.
• Left-side driving takes practice—especially in cities. Stay alert for blind spots on the right-hand driver’s side.
• Roundabouts are very common; traffic travels clockwise, yield to vehicles from the right, and indicate your exit.
• The M7 motorway south of Dublin is a great “practice zone” for first-time Ireland road trippers before tackling narrow country roads.
• Expect narrow, winding rural roads with stone walls and occasional blind bends; slow down and use laybys to let faster cars pass.
• Traffic flow: Irish drivers are generally patient, but expect faster cars behind you when adjusting to left-side driving.
• Fuel stations are mostly self-service; know whether your car uses petrol or diesel.
• Be aware of toll roads, especially the M50 around Dublin, which is barrier-free and must be paid online by the next day.
• Always good idea to photograph before driving off.

Milestone Tip: Shifting with your left hand takes about 20 minutes to feel natural. If you’re nervous, the drive from Dublin to Cashel is mostly a straight motorway (M7), which is the perfect “practice” run before the narrow hills of Kerry.

Rock of Cashel: Ireland’s Most Dramatic Medieval Fortress

After 90 minutes of driving through increasingly rural Tipperary, the Rock of Cashel appeared on the horizon. There’s no mistaking it, a cluster of medieval stone buildings rising from a limestone outcrop, dominating the countryside

Also called St. Patrick’s Rock, this site has been significant since the 4th century, serving as a royal fortress, the seat of Munster kings, and later a medieval ecclesiastical center. Today, it’s one of Ireland’s most photographed historic sites, and standing in the parking lot with your first view of those ruins silhouetted against the sky, you understand why

Arriving at the Site

After parking at the base of the hill, my wife and I made the short walk up toward the Rock of Cashel, the views widening with every step. The countryside rolls out in every direction, and near the top you get that first sweeping look over the Golden Vale, the patchwork of green fields that makes Tipperary so iconic. By the time we reached the entrance, we were already surrounded by history: weathered Celtic crosses, ancient gravestones, and the ruins rising above us like something out of another century.

Exploring the Site

With a few minutes before the next guided tour, we wandered through the graveyard that wraps around the complex. Celtic crosses and headstones stand at every angle, some still sharp and legible, others softened by centuries of Irish wind and rain. It’s the kind of place where you instinctively slow down.

From there, we stepped into the Cathedral, a massive 13th‑century Gothic structure that’s now roofless but still incredibly striking. Walking through the nave with open sky overhead is surreal. The stone arches frame the surrounding countryside like oversized windows, and it’s easy to imagine how imposing this place must have been in its prime.

Just outside stands the Round Tower, dating back to the 11th or 12th century. You can’t climb it, but it’s one of the oldest buildings on the site and makes for fantastic photos, especially when the clouds move quickly behind it.

Cormac’s Chapel

Cormac’s Chapel was the part we were most excited about, and it absolutely lived up to the hype. This 12th‑century Romanesque church is covered in intricate stone carvings, geometric patterns, animals, and religious symbols that have survived nearly a millennium. Inside, the barrel‑vaulted ceiling and carved capitals immediately catch your eye, but the real treasure is the set of rare 12th‑century frescoes. They’re faint but unmistakably alive, offering a glimpse into medieval Ireland’s artistry and devotion.

The chapel also holds a beautifully carved sarcophagus, believed to belong to a 12th‑century Munster king. As we moved through the tight stone passages and small stairways, we could almost feel the weight of the centuries layered into every surface.

The Hall of the Vicars Choral

We wrapped up our visit at the Hall of the Vicars Choral, a 15th‑century residence once used by the clergy. It’s quieter than the main ruins, with a more intimate atmosphere that made it the perfect final stop. After the dramatic architecture and sweeping views outside, this smaller space offered a calm, reflective end to our time at the Rock of Cashel.

Tips for Visiting Rock of Cashel

• Location: Cashel, County Tipperary
• Driving Time: 1 hour 45 minutes from Dublin
• Parking: Paid parking available at the base of the hill
• Admission: Tickets are purchased on-site, starting €8 for adults, with reduced rates for seniors, students, and children; a separate guided tour is required to enter Cormac’s Chapel for an additional fee.
• Time Needed: 60–90 minutes for the Rock; 20 minutes for Hore Abbey
• Best Time to Visit: Morning or late afternoon for softer light and fewer crowds

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Kilkenny: Shenanigans Walks – History, Humor, and a Little Magic

After leaving the Rock of Cashel, we headed east to Kilkenny for an afternoon walking tour with Shenanigans Walks. It’s a straightforward drive, about 38 miles (60 km) and roughly 50–55 minutes on the M8, and the inland scenery is every bit as beautiful as Ireland’s coastal routes.

Before long, we were rolling into one of the country’s most charming medieval cities and seeing Kilkenny Castle appear on the horizon is a moment in itself.

Finding parking nearby took a little patience and after looping around a couple of times, we finally snagged a spot and made the short walk toward our meeting point at the castle.

The stroll in was a great warm‑up: narrow streets, colorful shopfronts, and that unmistakable medieval energy Kilkenny does so well.

The Tour: Part History, Part Comedy, Part Magic Show

Over the next 90 minutes, we walked the Medieval Mile while Nevin wove together Irish history, local legends, comedy bits, and yes, actual magic tricks. Card tricks, rope tricks, sleight‑of‑hand illusions performed in medieval alleyways.

It sounds gimmicky on paper, but in person it worked brilliantly; the magic became part of the storytelling.

The tour hit major landmarks like Kilkenny Castle, St. Canice’s Cathedral, and the Black Abbey, but Nevin’s real talent was bringing the people of medieval Kilkenny to life. He told stories of knights and merchants, rebellious monks, clergy scandals (there were plenty), and the everyday characters who once filled these streets.

Nevin is genuinely funny, not “tour‑guide funny,” but an actual comedian with excellent timing and delivery. We were entertained the entire way and laughed more than we expected.

The tour wrapped up near Kyteler’s Inn, named after Alice Kyteler, the infamous “witch” of Kilkenny. Nevin suggested we stay for dinner and a pint, and honestly, spending a few hours in a 13th‑century pub that’s been serving travelers for 700 years sounded perfect.

Unfortunately, we had to get back on the road to reach Kinsale before nightfall, but Kyteler’s is firmly on our list for next time.

• Location: Kilkenny City, County Kilkenny
• Tour Starting Point: Typically, near Kilkenny Castle (confirm when booking)
• Duration: 1.5–2 hours
• Walking Difficulty: Easy; mostly flat with a few cobblestone sections
• Best Time to Join: Late afternoon or early evening for cooler temperatures and great light
• Booking: Advance booking recommended, especially in summer

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Exploring Kinsale: Ireland’s Colorful Coastal Gem

Tucked along Ireland’s southern coast in County Cork, Kinsale is a vibrant harbor town known for its colorful streets, rich maritime history, and reputation as the “Gourmet Capital of Ireland.” After leaving Kilkenny, we headed south and arrived to find a place that perfectly balances coastal charm with historic intrigue. With its pastel-painted buildings, working waterfront, and relaxed pace, Kinsale quickly became one of our favorite stops on the trip, and an ideal base for exploring Ireland’s southern coast and the Wild Atlantic Way.

Driving into Kinsale

We took the M8 south through the scenic Golden Vale, transitioning to the N40, N71, and finally the R607 as the scenery shifted from rolling countryside to winding coastal roads. As we drove into Kinsale, pastel-painted buildings overlooked the harbor, and the town felt instantly welcoming with its narrow lanes, boutique shops, and lively cafés that invite you to slow down and explore.

Phil’s B&B and the Warmth of Kinsale

In Kinsale, we discovered color, warmth, and the sea, starting with our B&B stay, hosted by the gracious Philomena – Phil, as she preferred to be called, which felt like being welcomed into the home of a favorite aunt. Every morning, she prepared breakfast with the loveliest table setting, and one morning we shared stories and laughter with a couple from Germany; it was a simple yet wonderful experience, breaking bread with strangers and feeling completely at home in this welcoming town.

Historic Stroll Kinsale Walking Tour

We did our city walk with Barry Moloney from Historic Stroll Kinsale, and within minutes it was clear why this tour has been rated the best walking tour in Ireland by American visitors. Barry has that perfect Irish combination of wit, storytelling, and deep knowledge that makes history come alive.

He showed us where the original medieval shoreline used to be, the water once came right up to what’s now the middle of town. As we walked, Barry pointed out where medieval walls once stood and explained how Kinsale’s strategic harbor shaped Ireland’s destiny.

The centerpiece of his tour was the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, which Barry calls one of the most significant turning points in Irish history. With 3,500 Spanish soldiers landing here to help Irish clans fight the English, then getting trapped in town through a harsh winter siege. The Irish chiefs O’Neill and O’Donnell marched their armies 250 miles from Ulster to help, only to lose everything in a battle that lasted just an hour on Christmas Eve. “When people ask me why Northern Ireland is still part of the UK,” Barry said with that Irish twinkle in his eye, “I tell them: 1601, Kinsale.”

He also shared how Alexander Selkirk sailed from here before getting stranded on an island, becoming the real-life inspiration for Robinson Crusoe and told the tragic story of the Lusitania, torpedoed off Kinsale’s coast in 1915. The hour-long tour with no hills felt like getting a history lesson from your favorite uncle rather than a formal guide.

Visiting Charles Fort Military Fortress

The walking tour ended at the town plaza where we said our goodbyes and started our own walk through some fancy real estate towards the stone ramparts of Charles Fort. The walk itself is pleasant, about 15 minutes along the waterfront, passing expensive homes with million-dollar harbor views.

Charles Fort is a massive star-shaped coastal fortress built between 1677 and 1682 to defend the harbor after the Spanish had shown how vulnerable Kinsale was. It’s one of Europe’s best-preserved 17th-century star forts, with those distinctive pointed bastions designed to eliminate blind spots attackers could exploit.

Walking through the entrance gate feels like stepping back in time. The fort covers about 12 acres and was essentially a small town, housing over 400 soldiers and their families. Many buildings are now roofless shells, but intact enough to give you a real sense of garrison life. The views from the ramparts are spectacular, across to James Fort on the opposite shore and out to the Celtic Sea. The fort’s one famous flaw? It’s overlooked by higher ground on the landward side, which is exactly how it fell after a 13-day siege in 1690.

No Irish fort would be complete without a ghost story, and Charles Fort has Ireland’s most famous, the White Lady. Legend says the fort commander’s daughter married a young officer who was accidentally shot on their wedding night. In her grief, she threw herself from the ramparts. Soldiers over the centuries claimed to see her wandering in her wedding dress, and some officers reported being pushed down stairs by invisible hands. We didn’t see her, but there’s definitely an eerie feeling in the darker passages.

The fort remained a British garrison until 1922, when it was burned during the Civil War. Now restored as a National Monument, the €5 entrance fee is well worth it. You’ll want at least an hour to explore properly, just wear good shoes as the terrain is uneven and those rampart stairs are steep.

• Location: Summer Cove, Kinsale, County Cork (1.5 miles/3 km from Kinsale town center)
• Getting There: 5-minute drive from Kinsale or 30-40 minute scenic walk via the Scilly Walk
• Parking: Free roadside parking available (informal but adequate)
• Duration: 1.5–2 hours
• Walking Difficulty: Moderate; uneven terrain, steep stairs on ramparts
• Opening Hours:
  • Mid-March to October: Daily 10:00am – 6:00pm
  • November to Mid-March: Daily 10:00am – 5:00pm
  • Last admission 45 minutes before closing

Walking the Town

Kinsale is incredibly walkable, and exploring on foot is the best way to appreciate its charm. We strolled along the waterfront, wandered through Market Street and Main Street, and stopped into local shops around every corner. The town has a creative, artistic feel with murals, galleries, and colorful facades that make every street seem designed for a postcard.

One of my favorite finds was at Mamukko, a workshop of artistry and imagination, where I discovered a travel bag and coin holder unlike any I’ve owned, both crafted from reclaimed sails. The town is full of these unexpected treasures in its boutique shops. Give yourself plenty of time to enjoy Kinsale, has lots of Irish coastal charm.

Milestone Tip: Make restaurant reservations in advance, this was our biggest challenge as the popular spots fill up quickly, especially during summer evenings.

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Drombeg Stone Circle

Saying slán to Phil was bittersweet, as she was such a gentle soul and brought us joy every morning during our breakfast encounters.  But alas, we navigated towards our ultimate destination, Dingle.  With some stops planned along the way, we drove towards Killarney and a quick stop at Drombeg Stone Circle.

Drombeg Stone Circle

Tucked into the countryside near Glandore, Drombeg Stone Circle (often called “The Druid’s Altar”) is one of the best‑preserved stone circles in Ireland. Dating back to the Bronze Age, the circle consists of 17 stones aligned with the setting sun on the winter solstice.  Excavations have uncovered an urn burial at its center, dating back to 153 BC to 127 AD. In 1957 and 1958, further excavations unveiled cremated bones within a deliberately broken pot, cloth-wrapped, and buried near the circle’s center. 

We parked at the small lot and followed the short path to the site. The moment you step into the clearing, the landscape opens up into sweeping views of the surrounding hills. It’s peaceful, quiet, and surprisingly moving. Even without crowds, the place carries a sense of mystery that’s hard to describe.

We spent time walking around the stones, reading the interpretive signs, and taking in the scenery. It’s a quick stop, but absolutely worth the detour.

Killarney National Park

Leaving Drombeg behind, the road began to shift as the coastline faded and the land rose toward Killarney. The drive itself became part of the experience, narrow country lanes winding past stone-fenced fields dotted with grazing sheep, postcard-worthy villages, and the occasional ocean view still lingering in the distance. By the time we arrived, it felt like we had entered a different Ireland altogether, one that was greener, wilder, and full of promise.

That feeling carried straight into Killarney National Park where lakes, mountains, and woodlands unfold around the historic Muckross House at its entrance. Established in 1932 as Ireland’s first national park, the area spans more than 26,000 acres and protects a remarkable landscape of rugged peaks, shimmering water, dense forests, and cascading waterfalls. Recognized as part of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the area is home to rare ecosystems and Ireland’s only remaining native red deer herd.

At the heart of it all, both geographically and historically, is Muckross House, anchoring the park at its entrance and setting the stage for the stories, history, and experiences that unfold from there.

Muckross House

Built in 1843 for Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife Mary Balfour Herbert, the Tudor-style mansion was meant to display wealth and status, a pursuit that peaked with lavish renovations for Queen Victoria’s 1861 visit and ultimately led to financial ruin. After changing hands, the estate was donated to the Irish nation in 1932, becoming Ireland’s first national park.

We didn’t make it inside the house, but the grounds alone were worth the stop.

Muckross Abbey

The walk from Muckross House to Muckross Abbey is an easy 1.1 miles and takes about 20–25 minutes at a relaxed pace. The paved path is mostly flat and well maintained, making it accessible for most visitors, while horse-drawn carriages offer a charming, old-world alternative if you’d rather ride than walk.

We followed the shaded trail to Muckross Abbey, more accurately, a Franciscan friary, founded in 1448 by Donal McCarthy Mór, a chieftain of the MacCarthy clan. Despite periods of suppression and abandonment, the friary remained a place of quiet devotion for centuries.

Stepping into the courtyard, the first thing that draws your eye is the ancient yew tree at its center. Estimated to be several hundred years old, possibly dating back to the friary’s founding, its gnarled branches twist skyward as a living witness to faith, resilience, and the countless generations who have passed through this sacred space.

Boat Ride

After visiting the Abbey, we backtracked to main pier and took a boat ride across Muckross Lake to Dinis Pier. The ride offers beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains, and on a clear day you might spot white-tailed eagles overhead.

From Dinis Pier, we walked to the Meeting of the Waters, where Killarney’s three lakes converge, Upper Lake, Muckross Lake, and Lough Leane. This is where you’ll find the Old Weir Bridge, a stone arch where the water flows between the lakes. It’s a peaceful spot that feels tucked away from everything.

We stopped at Dinis Cottage for a break. This 1700s cottage has been serving refreshments for over 200 years, and it’s a popular stop for hikers and cyclists on the trail. We had coffee and homemade scones while sitting outside by the lake.

The walk back followed the paved path around part of Muckross Lake. It’s an easy, mostly flat trail that’s perfect for all fitness levels. We stopped for photos at Brickeen Bridge, an 18th-century stone arch that offers great views of both lakes with the mountains in the background. The whole loop back to the parking lot took us about two hours at a leisurely pace, with plenty of stops for photos along the way.

• Location: County Kerry, just outside Killarney town
• Driving Time: 2 hours from Drombeg; 5 minutes from Killarney town center
• Parking: Multiple lots near Muckross House, Torc Waterfall, and Ross Castle
• Top Sights: Muckross House, Torc Waterfall, Ross Castle, Lakes of Killarney
• Time Needed: Half‑day minimum; full day recommended
• Best Time to Visit: Morning for fewer crowds and softer light
• Torc Waterfall: Busiest midday; early morning gives you the quiet, misty atmosphere it’s known for.
• Muckross House Gardens: Free to explore and perfect for photography
• Parking: Near Ross Castle fills quickly, go early or late afternoon
• Red Deer: Often spotted near dusk, keep an eye on the tree line
• The Park is huge; plan your stops ahead to avoid backtracking

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Exploring Dingle: Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Charm

Leaving Killarney behind, we continued west toward the Dingle Peninsula, one of the most breathtaking regions on the Wild Atlantic Way. The drive into Dingle was beyond imagination; the rolling hills, deep valleys, and countless sheep created a landscape straight out of a W. B. Yeats poem. Unfortunately, I have no photos or videos; as we were focused on arriving before nightfall. By the time we reached the town of Dingle, we understood why so many travelers call this their favorite place in Ireland. If you make the journey, take your time, this stretch of Ireland is absolutely stunning.

Arriving in Dingle

Dingle welcomed us with color, character, and an easygoing charm that immediately set the tone for our stay. We stayed at the Lantern House, a quaint B&B with just the right touch of home. Our host, Anne-Marie, was warm, accommodating, and attentive to every detail of our brief stay.

After settling in, we asked for a dinner recommendation and were pointed to Doyles. It was an easy walk, just about a block down the road. We enjoyed the seafood linguine and the pan-dried black sole, a fantastic introduction to “The Dingle”, as the locals call it.

Slea Head Drive: One of Ireland’s Most Scenic Coastal Routes

The Slea Head Drive on the Dingle Peninsula is one of those places that remind you why travel matters. Stretching just 24 miles along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, the local name is known as Slí Cheann Sléibhe.  This beautiful highway winds through rugged coastline, quiet villages, and landscapes that seem traveled, but untouched by time. Officially added to the Wild Atlantic Way in 2014, the drive still carries the texture of something more rustic and weathered.

Driving it clockwise kept us closest to the coast, which also meant hugging some tight turns along the left-hand side of the road. What amazed us, was watching the full-size tour buses handle those same narrow bends with ease. I have no idea how those drivers manage it, but they do, with what I can only describe as nerves of steel and a deep understanding of Irish roads.

The Fairy Fort

Our first stop was at the Fairy Fort, a small pet farm that had lambs, pigs and donkeys running free. A really good experience being able to have them all walk up to you, looking for food, and allowing them to be petted. Just beyond the pet farm sits a preserved rath, or ringfort, where ancient folklore is, don’t mess with it and leave it be or else.

Beehive Huts

Just a bit up the road we stopped at the Bee Hive Huts, these ancient stone structures scattered along the hillside overlooking the Atlantic. Known locally as clocháns, the huts date back hundreds of years and were built entirely without mortar, each stone carefully stacked inwards to form a corbelled dome. Standing inside one, it’s hard to imagine how people once lived here, braving the harsh coastal winds with only layered stone for shelter.  The stop was brief, but you really get a feel for how the locals lived, rugged.

Viewpoint Along the Way

Shortly after passing the White Cross, we spotted a pull-out and decided to stop. From here, the views opened up across the Atlantic rugged coastline, with Dunmore Head off in the distance. It was the kind of spot that we had to stop at, just long enough to stretch our legs, explore, and capture some photos of the surrounding landscape.

Dunmore Head & The Coumeenoole Ogham Stone

Our next stop along the Slea Head Drive was Dunmore Head, the dramatic westernmost point of mainland Ireland and a filming location for Star Wars: The Last Jedi. We parked near Coumeenoole Bay, and the moment we stepped out of the car, the wind made its presence known. From here, the land drops sharply into the sea, opening wide views over the bay and the rugged coastline beyond.

It’s a short but worthwhile walk from the parking area to the edge of Dunmore Head. As the path climbs, the views expand, and on a clear day you can see Great Blasket Island rising out of the water just offshore. Standing there, at the edge of the continent, the scale of the landscape has a way of stopping you in your tracks.

On the way back we walked to the top of Dunmore Head where a stone stands that has endured more than fourteen centuries of coastal storms. The Coumeenoole Ogham Stone was discovered in 1838 lying on the ground and re-erected the following year, preserving a message carved in the sixth century. Despite centuries of exposure, the inscription remains legible: “ERC MAQI MAQI-ERCIAS MU DOVINIA”—“Of Erc, son of Mac-Erce, descendant of the tribe of Duibne.”

Someone long ago believed Erc’s life was worth remembering. We don’t know who he was or how he lived, only that his name was carved into stone with intention. Nearly fifteen hundred years later, we’re still reading it, still speaking it aloud.

Back to Dingle: Town Strolls and Michelin Guide Favorite

After a half day of driving and exploring along the Slea Head Drive, we headed back to Dingle to slow things down and enjoy the town itself. We returned to our B&B, then set out on foot, letting the afternoon unfold at an easy pace. Dingle is made for wandering, colorful shopfronts, local crafts, and a steady hum of conversation give the town a lively yet relaxed feel that invites you to explore without an agenda.

We eventually stopped at Out of the Blue, a small, no-frills seafood restaurant that has been featured in the Michelin Guide for more than 15 years. Known for its focus on the day’s catch and a menu that changes based on what’s freshest, it’s one of those places where unique flavors that you would not believe go together, but are deliciously surprising. We arrived for a early dinner, and every dish made it clear why this spot has earned its reputation: fresh, thoughtfully prepared, and full of flavor.

Afterward, we capped things off the right way with ice cream from Murphy’s, a Dingle staple that somehow tastes even better after a long day on the road. With full stomachs and tired legs, we ventured back to our B&B, soaking in the town’s charm and stopping to admire the harbor, those boats are especially impressive up close. It’s the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave.

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• Location: Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry
• Driving Time: Approximately 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes from Killarney
• Time Needed: Dingle is beautiful and deserves at least one full day; however, it is a popular base for 2–3 days to explore both the town and the peninsula
• Best Time to Visit: Summer or late spring for the best weather and long daylight hours
• Drive Slea Head clockwise: It is essential (and often required by local signage) to drive clockwise to follow the flow of tour buses and avoid dangerous head-on encounters on narrow cliff sections
• Start the loop early: Aim to be on the road by 9:00 AM to stay ahead of the tour buses that typically arrive from Killarney after 11:00 AM
• Allow 3.5–5+ hours for the loop: While the drive itself is short, you will want ample time for photo stops and exploring ancient sites
• Turn off your sat nav on Slea Head: Follow local road signs instead; GPS often routes drivers onto unsuitable, private, or impassable farm roads
• Expect very narrow, single-lane stretches: Be prepared to use lay-bys (pull-off areas) and yield to oncoming local traffic or livestock
• Dunquin Pier (Dún Chaoin): The path is extremely steep and can be slippery; sturdy shoes are essential if you plan to walk down
• Have some cash with you: You may come across local artists selling engraved Ogham stones or small shops that do not accept cards
• Parking in Dingle: Space is very limited during peak season; arrive early or use the designated car parks on the outskirts of the town center to avoid congestion
• Must-See Slea Head Stops: Plan time for the Fahan Beehive Huts (ancient stone dwellings), Gallarus Oratory (a perfectly preserved 7th-century church), and the Dingle Sheepdogs demonstration near Ventry to see border collies herding on the cliffs

Heading to Galway – Conor Pass & Ferry Crossing

Leaving Dingle behind, we set off toward Galway, planning a stop at the Cliffs of Moher along the way. We chose the scenic route over the legendary Conor Pass, and once you drive the R560, it feels less like a road and more like an adventure, winding through the steep cliffs and glacial valleys as it narrows to a single lane clinging to the mountainside.

Before beginning the descent, we pulled into the overlook for one last sweeping view of Dingle and its surrounding bays, watching cars below navigate the tightest stretch and silently wondering who would yield when two met head-on. After a few nervous laughs and a deep breath, we joined them, fully aware that this rugged, dramatic stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way was the kind of experience that stays with you long after the drive is over.

It’s not the fastest route from Dingle to Galway, but it’s easily the most dramatic, a white-knuckle, heart-stealing road that rewards every ounce of courage with unforgettable views. Proudly having conquered it ourselves, we continued north to catch the ferry from Tarbert to Killimer, then drove onward to our next destination: the iconic Cliffs of Moher.

Ferry Crossing to County Clare

Instead of looping back inland, we opted for the Shannon Ferry, a short but scenic crossing that connects County Kerry to County Clare. It’s a relaxing break from driving and a fun way to experience the coastline from the water.

We drove onto the ferry, parked, and stepped out to enjoy the views. The crossing is smooth and peaceful, with seabirds overhead and fishing boats passing in the distance. In just a few minutes, you’re back on the road, refreshed and ready for the next leg of the journey toward Galway.

Note to future travelers taking the ferry: Don’t pull up in front of tour buses while waiting for the ferry to load. We made that mistake and got barked at by the driver, a stereotypical old Irish guy, the kind you imagine eats nails for breakfast: “You can’t cut the queue!”

Turns out tour buses get priority loading on Irish ferries (they check in an hour before departure versus 30 minutes for regular vehicles), so they’re rightfully protective of their spot in line. Lesson learned the hard way – stay behind the tour buses and wait your turn!

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The Cliffs of Moher: Standing on the Edge of the Wild Atlantic

After crossing into County Clare, we continued north toward one of Ireland’s most iconic natural landmarks, the Cliffs of Moher, part of the Burren & Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark. Even if you’ve seen photos a hundred times, nothing prepares you for the moment the cliffs come into view. Towering above the Atlantic Ocean, stretching for miles, and constantly battered by wind and waves, the Cliffs of Moher feel raw, powerful, and unmistakably Irish.

Arriving at the Cliffs

Parking the car and walking toward the visitor center, it was clear we were about to experience something truly special. The views open up in every direction: to the north, O’Brien’s Tower, a 19th‑century lookout, perches on the cliff edge; to the south, the cliffs curve dramatically toward Hag’s Head. On a clear day, you can spot the Aran Islands far out on the horizon. From here, we had two choices: a short, easy 1-mile walk to O’Brien’s Tower or a longer 3.75-mile trek to the southern viewpoint at Hag’s Head.

Walking the Cliff Paths

We chose Hag’s Head for our hike, it’s farther out and far less crowded than the northern viewpoints. With only a handful of other hikers along the way, we could truly hear the sea crashing below and feel the wind pushing against us from every direction. Hag’s Head marks the southernmost tip of the Cliffs of Moher, a rugged outpost with sweeping views and a rare sense of peace. The rock formation here is said to resemble a woman’s profile, though from where I stood, I couldn’t make it out, but there are plenty of other fascinating rock shapes to catch your eye.

The site is steeped in history. Hag’s Head was once home to an ancient fort called Mothar (or Moher), meaning “ruined fort” in Old Irish. During the Napoleonic Wars, its stones were repurposed to build Moher Tower in 1808, a watchtower guarding against Atlantic invasions. Meanwhile, the northern cliffs were developed in the 19th century by Cornelius O’Brien, a local landowner and MP, who built walkways, viewing areas, and O’Brien’s Tower to make the cliffs more welcoming to visitors. The southern stretch toward Hag’s Head, however, has remained largely wild and untamed.

If you visit, take your time. The wind will whip around you, the sea will roar below, and you’ll understand why this corner of Ireland feels almost mythical. For Harry Potter fans, the cliffs made a cinematic appearance in The Half-Blood Prince, with CGI blending Hag’s Head and nearby Lemon Rock to create the Horcrux cave scene.

The official paths are well-maintained and offer safe, stunning views, and if you want a longer, quieter walk, the Cliffs of Moher Coastal Trail stretches for miles along the edge. Even a short stretch of this trail gives you a more immersive experience. Just be mindful of the wind, it’s strong, unpredictable, and part of what makes the cliffs feel so alive.

• Parking: Large paid lot at the visitor center makes access easy.
• Time Needed: Plan 1–2 hours for the main viewpoints; longer if you explore part of the coastal trail.
• Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for softer light and fewer crowds.
• Weather: Windy year-round; bring a jacket and be ready for rapidly changing conditions.
• Coastal Trail: Offers quieter viewpoints and a more immersive experience away from the crowds.
• O’Brien’s Tower: Built in 1835, it provides elevated views for a small additional fee.
• Wildlife: Home to thousands of seabirds, including puffins in spring and early summer.
• Scenery: The cliffs stretch ~14 km (8.7 miles) with sheer drops up to 702 feet (214 meters).
• Safety Tip: Stick to the official paths and barriers, strong winds and sheer drops make the cliffs dangerous if you stray.
• Nearby Stops: Consider a lunch stop in Doolin before heading onward to Galway.

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Galway: A City of History, Music, and Maritime Heritage

I had expected Galway to be a small, quiet town, but it was the complete opposite, it’s actually the sixth-largest city on the island of Ireland, with about 85,910 residents in 2022. Driving in presented some challenges: busy traffic navigated by locals with a clear home-field advantage, and finding our hotel’s designated public car park. After some frustration and a couple of loops around the square, we made it.

Then we unpacked our luggage and walked about 3 blocks to the Eyre Square Hotel, right in the city center near shopping and Eyre Square.

Exploring the Latin Quarter

After our driving adventure and settling into our hotel, we wandered toward the Latin Quarter, enjoying the sights and sounds of Galway in the evening. We strolled under the historic Spanish Arch and meandered through the cobblestone streets of the Latin Quarter, taking in the colorful shops, lively pubs, and cheerful street performers along the way. The real highlight, of course, was stopping at McDonagh’s for what might just be the best fish and chips in Ireland—yummy! A simple walk with a nice introduction to the city’s vibrant charm.

Aran Island Ferry – Inis Mór

The next morning, we headed down to the harbor to catch the ferry from Galway to Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands. The crossing takes about 90 minutes, just enough time to settle in, feel the sea air, and watch the mainland slowly fade behind us. Inis Mór is a rugged limestone island where traditional Irish culture and language are still very much alive, and where dramatic sea cliffs and ancient stone forts dominate the landscape.

After a brisk walk to the terminal, check-in, and boarding, we were soon underway. The ferry allows about 4.5 hours on the island, giving visitors time to explore sandy beaches, wander past stone walls, and experience the slower, quieter rhythm of island life.

Highlights include the prehistoric cliff-top fort Dún Aonghasa – The Black Fort, one of the most striking archaeological sites in Ireland, perched high above the Atlantic.

On the return journey, the ferry passes beneath the Cliffs of Moher, offering a completely different perspective than from land. Rising over 200 meters and formed more than 300 million years ago, the cliffs are even more awe-inspiring from the water.

Along the way, we spotted sea stacks like An Bránán Mór, a sea cave featured in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, and kept our eyes peeled for wildlife, puffins, dolphins, seals, and even basking sharks are known to frequent these waters.

It was the perfect way to experience Ireland’s west coast: fresh sea air, dramatic landscapes, rich history, and a sense of calm that stays with you long after you return to shore.

• 90-Minute Galway Crossing: The ferry from Galway City Docks to Inis Mór takes about 90 minutes, so plan your day—and your sea legs—accordingly.
• Not All Ferries Leave from the Same Spot: Ferries also run from Rossaveel (Connemara) and seasonally from Doolin, but departures from Galway City Docks are limited and seasonal. Double-check your departure location when booking.
• Book Ahead: Ferry seats can sell out quickly in peak season, especially from late spring through summer.
• Arrive Early: Plan to arrive at least 30 minutes before departure to allow time for check-in and boarding.
• Prepare for Seasickness: The Atlantic can be choppy—bring Dramamine or motion-sickness medication if you’re prone to it. (Trust me on this one.)
• Dress for the Weather: Even calm days can feel cold on the water—layers and a windproof jacket are your friends.
• Limited Time on the Island: Most trips allow about 4–5 hours on Inis Mór, so decide your must-see stops in advance.
• Getting Around Inis Mór: Biking is the most popular option, but minibus tours, pony & trap rides, and walking are also available near the pier.
• Food Options: Cafés and pubs are clustered near Kilronan village, making it easy to grab lunch between exploring.
• Return Views: Some return sailings pass beneath the Cliffs of Moher—grab an outdoor or window seat if the views matter to you.

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Dún Dúchathair by Bike on Inis Mór

Angie did not handle the sea crossing well, so stepping off the ferry onto solid ground was a relief for both of us. Almost immediately, we were greeted by locals offering bike rentals. They kept suggesting e-bikes.

I waved them off with confidence: “Nah, we’re good.” That confidence lasted about five minutes. Inis Mór is not flat, and Angie reminded me of that fact repeatedly for the rest of the day.

As we got closer, the paved road turned to gravel, and soon it was just rocks and dirt. We slowed to let a car pass, stopping right next to a briar bush. I misjudged my balance and over I went, straight into the thorns.

The bike toppled with me in tow, and I was shouting, “Angie! Angie!” to zero response, she was completely zoned out watching the car. I walked away with a few scratches, a handful of prickles, and my pride bruised.

We pressed on toward Dún Dúchathair (the Black Fort). The gravel soon gave way to the island’s famous cheval de frise, a defensive maze of sharp, uneven limestone. Every step required focus, head down, careful navigation that made me grateful the Atlantic wasn’t a few feet closer.

Dún Dúchathair itself feels almost untouched compared to its more famous neighbor, Dún Aonghasa. There are no guardrails or facilities, just a prehistoric fort perched on 100-foot cliffs.

We edged closer, peeking over with a healthy dose of butterflies in the stomach, listening to the Atlantic crash below and the seabirds overhead. It’s quiet in a way that makes you stop talking without realizing it.

After exploring, we made our way back to where we could hop on the bikes again, thankful that the ride back was mostly downhill. With some time left before the ferry, we stopped at Joe Watty’s Pub & Seafood Bar for food and a well-earned pint, then finished with a wander through the Aran Sweater Market for a bit of shopping.

All things considered, it was a great day and well worth the effort. And yes, next time, e-bikes are recommended on Inis Mór, no questions asked.

Exploring Galway: Museum, Spanish Arch & Riverside Moments

The day after our ferry adventure, we eased into Galway with breakfast at GBC (Galway Bakery Company), a family-owned spot that’s been around since 1936.

It was exactly what we needed, good coffee, a proper Full Irish, and a relaxed start before heading out to explore the city.

Once breakfast settled, we walked over to the Galway City Museum, located right beside the Spanish Arch along the River Corrib.

The museum does a great job of telling Galway’s story, from its medieval past and maritime roots to its creative and cultural life today. It’s easy to take your time here, and even easier knowing admission is free.

Stepping back outside, we strolled around the Spanish Arch, where the river meets the sea, then followed the Corrib upstream. Along the way, we watched a lone angler standing mid-river in waders, casting a fly rod into the current.

The River Corrib is well known for salmon and sea trout, and seeing someone quietly working the water near the weir felt like a small, everyday moment of local life.

Our last stop was Galway Cathedral, a massive stone structure completed in 1965. Unlike many cathedrals built on ancient religious sites, this one stands on the grounds of a former prison.

Overseen by Bishop Mícheál Browne, its design blends Gothic, Renaissance, and Romanesque styles, and the scale of it is striking the moment you step inside.

It was the perfect way to experience a different side of Galway, good food, local history, quiet walks, and those small moments that make a place feel lived in.

• Location: Galway City Museum sits beside the historic Spanish Arch on the banks of the River Corrib, central to the city’s main walking routes.
• Admission: Entry to the museum is free, though donations are welcome.
• Museum Focus: Exhibits cover Galway’s history from ancient times to the present, including archaeology, art, folk life, and social and political history.
• Revolution in Galway: Displays explore the city’s experience during Ireland’s revolutionary period (1913–1923), including local perspectives on independence and civil conflict.
• War of Independence: The museum highlights Galway’s role in the Irish War of Independence, including stories of the Black and Tans and their impact on the local community.
• Pádraic Ó Conaire: A section is dedicated to Galway’s famous Irish-language writer and his cultural significance.
• Maritime Heritage: A full-size replica of a Galway Hooker sailing boat reflects the city’s long-standing maritime traditions.
• Claddagh & Local Culture: Exhibits highlight the Claddagh fishing village, its traditions, and artifacts from daily life in historic Galway.
• Spanish Arch History: The Spanish Arch, part of Galway’s 16th-century city defenses, marks the meeting point of river and sea and reflects the city’s medieval past.
• River Corrib: The fast-flowing river shaped Galway’s identity through trade, fishing, and daily life, and remains a striking feature of the cityscape.

Pádraic Ó Conaire

The Writer Who Saved Irish Literature

When you dive into the life of Pádraic Ó Conaire, you meet a writer whose energy and output were remarkable. Born in Galway in 1882, Ó Conaire wrote hundreds of stories, essays, plays, and novels, all in Irish at a time when the language was struggling to survive outside the Gaeltacht.

His novel Deoraíocht (Exile) is considered one of the earliest examples of modernist fiction in Irish. Throughout his work, he tackled themes that still resonate today:

• Emigration and displacement
• Poverty and social inequality
• Isolation and belonging
• The struggles of everyday Irish life

He gave a voice to ordinary people, chronicling the nuances of life in Ireland with empathy and realism.

A Moment Frozen in Time at Galway City Museum

Standing in front of the photograph of his statue’s unveiling in Eyre Square in 1935 at the Galway City Museum, I was drawn into the scene as if I could step right into it.

The crowd feels alive: children in crisp collars, young adults in neat coats, policemen standing watchfully, all faces turned toward the moment. There’s nothing staged here, just genuine expressions of curiosity, awe, and quiet excitement.

It’s a moment frozen in time, yet it pulses with the same authenticity that Ó Conaire brought to his writing, capturing ordinary lives with profound insight.

A Living Legacy in Modern Ireland

Even today, Ó Conaire’s impact is still felt across Ireland. The revival and celebration of the Irish language in schools, media, and literature builds on the foundation he helped establish.

His stories continue to be read, studied, and translated, serving as a reminder that the heart of a culture lives in the stories people tell about themselves. In a way, the faces in that 1935 photograph are still with us, witnesses to a legacy that continues to shape Irish language and identity, inviting each new generation to engage with the vibrant, living culture he loved and wrote for.

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O’Connor’s Famous Pub Salthill: An Authentic Irish Night in Galway

Located on the Salthill Promenade just 2.5 km from Eyre Square, O’Connor’s Famous Pub has been drawing both locals and travelers into its antique-filled interior for generations.

To wrap up our stay in Galway on our last night, we set off on a breezy 30-minute walk from the city center down to this traditional Irish pub that everyone kept mentioning.

Getting to O’Connor’s Pub

The walk from Galway city center to O’Connor’s (R336, Salthill) takes about 30 minutes along the promenade, totally doable and actually quite nice in the evening air.

You could grab a taxi for about €10, but honestly, the walk builds anticipation. We arrived right at opening (around 5 PM on weekdays), which turned out to be perfect timing.

Inside O’Connor’s – Where History Hangs From Every Wall

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but from the moment we stepped inside, this place grabbed me. Walking in before the crowds rolled in gave us the perfect chance to really take in the surroundings.

The walls and ceilings are packed with antiques, old gas lamps, farm tools, even a near-life-size John Wayne statue watching over the bar. As someone who photographs pubs across Ireland, I can tell you O’Connor’s interior is a goldmine.

Those old gas lamps catch the afternoon light beautifully through the front windows. It’s the kind of quirky interior that makes you pause mid-step, glance around, and think, Yeah, this is Ireland.

When Day Turns to Craic

As the late afternoon slipped into evening, the pub morphed from cozy curiosities to full-on craic. The hardwood floors filled up, the Guinness flowed freely, and live traditional music kicked in around 9 PM. There’s no food, no TVs, just good pints, great tunes, and people laughing together, exactly the kind of place you want to be on your final night in Galway.

Fair warning: it gets properly packed on weekends, so early evening visits give you the best of both worlds, you can actually see those antiques before the crowd rolls in and still catch the energy building for the night ahead.

The Ed Sheeran Connection

If you’re an Ed Sheeran fan, you’ll get a kick out of this: the music video for “Galway Girl” was filmed right here at O’Connor’s. The pub doesn’t even need a set, its walls tell the story already, which probably explains why it fit perfectly into the video’s vibe. Now, it’s become one of the most famous Irish pubs around, though thankfully it hasn’t lost its authentic character to tourist hype.

End of the Night

By the end of the night, I’d definitely had a few too many, laughed harder than I expected, and soaked in that warm, buzzy energy only a proper Irish pub can create. Then came that long walk back to Galway city center in the crisp evening air, totally worth it.

If you’re wandering around Galway and want an authentic, unforgettable ending (or start) to your evening, this traditional Irish pub in Salthill is a spot you won’t forget. After exploring Galway’s Latin Quarter earlier in the day, this made for the perfect nightcap to our Galway adventure.

• Address: R336, Salthill, Galway
• Best for: Traditional music sessions (usually start around 9 PM)
• Heads up: Cash is king here, though cards are accepted
• When to visit: Early evening for photos and atmosphere, after 9 PM for the trad sessions
• Walking time: 30 minutes from Eyre Square

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The Quiet Man Bridge

Leaving Galway for Connemara

The next morning, considering the amount of Hop House Lager I’d consumed the night before at O’Connor’s, I was surprisingly functional. I even managed to get us checked out of the hotel in record time.

Our plan for the day was simple: make our way toward Connemara, with a quick stop at one of Ireland’s most photographed filming locations.

A Hollywood Icon in County Galway

As fans of the classic 1952 film The Quiet Man starring John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, we couldn’t pass up the chance to see the famous stone bridge in person.

Located just outside Oughterard on the N59 (about 30 minutes from Galway city), this picturesque spot has become a pilgrimage site for movie buffs and photographers alike.

The bridge itself, officially called Leam Bridge, spans the Owenriff River and remains virtually unchanged since John Ford filmed here over 70 years ago. It’s where Sean Thornton (John Wayne) first meets Mary Kate Danaher (Maureen O’Hara) in one of cinema’s most iconic Irish scenes.

Movie Buff Tip: If you’re a fan too, here’s a great resource that highlights the different filming locations used throughout Ireland. The Quiet Man used locations across Counties Galway and Mayo, many still accessible today.

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Kylemore Abbey: A Fairytale in the Heart of Connemara

The drive into Connemara National Park felt like stepping into another world. If only I’d had a GoPro mounted on the dashboard, every twist of the N59 revealed another postcard‑worthy scene.

The road hugged the edge of Kylemore Lough, with mountains rising sharply on one side and glassy water stretching out on the other.

Not a single car passed us the entire morning. Instead, we shared the road with herds of sheep grazing lazily along the shoulders, completely unbothered by our presence.

I was behind the wheel, so these two photos were all I managed to capture, but the memories are vivid.

Arriving at Kylemore Abbey

Our next stop was Kylemore Abbey, and it truly took our breath away. The castle sits at the base of a mountain, perfectly positioned beside the lake. On a still day, the entire façade reflects in the water like a mirror, one of the most iconic and serene views in all of Ireland.

Built between 1863 and 1868, Kylemore was the dream home of Mitchell Henry, a wealthy English politician, and his beloved wife, Margaret. Their story is beautiful and heartbreaking. Margaret passed away suddenly in 1875, and Mitchell never spent much time at Kylemore afterward. Today, the couple rests together in a small mausoleum on the grounds, a quiet, touching reminder of devotion and loss.

In 1920, the estate became home to Benedictine nuns who had fled Belgium during World War I. They brought new life to Kylemore, founding a boarding school for international students, a day school for local girls, and even running a working farm and guesthouse.

The guesthouse closed after a fire in 1959, but part of the property remains a private sanctuary for the nuns’ monastic life of prayer and work. It’s a place steeped in history, for sure.

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• Location: Connemara, County Galway
• Driving Time from Galway City: 1 hr 15 min (longer if stopping for photos)
• Parking: Free large lot near the main visitor center
• Highlights: Abbey, Victorian Walled Garden, Gothic Church, Mausoleum, Lakeside Walks, Woodland Trails
• Time Needed: 2–4 hours for a full visit if you explore garden, church, and walks
• Estate Size: Spans 1,000 acres of mountainside, forest, and lakeshore
• Estate Seasonal Opening Times:
  • March–October: 10:00am–6:00pm (last admission 5:00pm)
  • Late October–December: 10:00am–5:00pm (last admission 4:00pm)
  • December–March: 10:00am–5:00pm
• Kylemore Kitchen Café Hours: Open daily from about 10:00am–4:30pm (off‑peak) and until 5:30pm in peak season (March–October)
• Garden Tea House Hours: Typically 11:00am–4:00pm when open
• Most Scenic Driving Route:
  • N59 through Connemara, with views over lakes like Lough Inagh and mountain panoramas
  • Optional Sky Road detour near Clifden for dramatic coastal views
• Best Photo Spot: Across the lake from the abbey for iconic reflections, especially early when the water is calm
• Victorian Walled Garden: Larger and more detailed than most expect; allow extra time if you enjoy gardens
• Soft Adventures Nearby: Woodland and lakeshore trails vary from short strolls to longer hikes, with common wildlife sightings
• Driving Tips: Slow down for sheep or livestock wandering near rural Connemara roads
• Photographic Reputation: One of Ireland’s most photographed historic sites due to its dramatic setting and architectural charm
• Community Today: Still an active Benedictine monastery with ongoing spiritual and cultural life

Connemara National Park: Hiking Diamond Hill

A few miles further down the N59 brought us into the heart of Connemara National Park, where Diamond Hill was waiting for us. We laced up our hiking boots, tightened the straps, and set off on the Upper Trail, a 3.8‑mile (6 km) loop that climbs steadily toward one of the best viewpoints in all of Connemara.

Hiking the Upper Trail

The path is well‑marked, alternating between stone steps, gravel sections, and wooden boardwalks. The trail is steep in places, just enough to make your legs burn and remind you that you’re earning the view.

As we climbed higher, the landscape opened up beautifully: rolling hills stretching toward the horizon, the Twelve Bens rising proudly in the distance, and far below, the glimmer of Kylemore Abbey perfectly framed by the lake.

At times, we were eye‑level with the birds as they glided past on the wind currents, a surreal reminder of just how high we had climbed.

Reaching the Summit

At the summit, the reward was indescribable. A full 360‑degree panorama unfolded around us, lakes, valleys, mountains, and shifting clouds drifting across a bright blue sky.

It’s the kind of view that makes you pause, breathe deeply, and take in the quiet majesty of Connemara.

The Descent

On the way down, the trail curved gently toward the visitor center, where sheep grazed lazily across the open fields, completely unbothered by hikers passing by. The entire experience felt peaceful, grounding, and unforgettable.

Connemara quickly became one of my favorite stops in Ireland. There’s a serenity here that’s hard to put into words, a feeling that stays with you long after you’ve left.

• Location: Connemara National Park, County Galway
• Trail: Diamond Hill Upper Trail (3.8 miles / 6 km)
• Elevation Gain: 1,450 ft (450 m)
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Time Needed: 2–3 hours
• Parking: Free parking at the visitor center
• Best Time to Visit: Morning or late afternoon for clearer views and fewer crowds
• Diamond Hill is one of the most popular hikes in Connemara National Park.
• The park spans 5,000+ acres of mountains, bogs, heaths, and woodlands.

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Westport: A Fun Movie Connection and Town Highlights

After leaving Connemara, we made our way to Westport, a town often recommended by guidebooks, including Rick Steve, as a must‑see stop in western Ireland.

While Westport certainly has its fans, it didn’t resonate with us the way other towns on our itinerary did. It felt more polished and affluent, lacking some of the traditional Irish charm and rugged character we’d grown to love throughout our trip.

That said, travel is personal, and every destination hits differently depending on what you’re looking for. Westport has plenty of history, a walkable town center, and a reputation for great food and music. It just wasn’t a standout for us.

A Fun Movie Connection

One unexpected highlight came after our trip. Years later, while watching Irish Wish with Lindsay Lohan, we immediately recognized Westport, especially the Glendenning Monument Pillar in the octagon and the charming bookstore featured in the film. We had actually gone inside during our visit and bought a book on Irish history.

A fun coincidence: we visited in May 2022, and filming for the movie took place just a few months later in September.

A Town That Depends on Your Travel Style

Whether you enjoy Westport will ultimately depend on your preferences. If you like tidy, colorful towns with boutique shops and a lively dining scene, you may love it.

If you’re drawn more to rugged landscapes, ancient ruins, and quieter villages, you might find it less memorable. As with any destination, your experience may be completely different and that’s part of what makes travel so interesting.

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Donegal: An Unexpected Irish Gem on the Way North

A Spontaneous Stop in Donegal Town

The trip from Westport to the Giant’s Causeway takes about two and a half hours of driving through increasingly dramatic landscapes. Donegal wasn’t on our itinerary, but after ninety minutes behind the wheel, we needed to stretch our legs.

We found parking near the River Eske and stepped into unexpectedly warm sunshine, a rare treat in northwest Ireland.

Within minutes of parking, we struck up a conversation with a local who perfectly captured Irish wit. “I’m not sure if the shorts in my drawer would still fit,” he joked, “since I’ve never had a chance to wear them.”

The weather that day was genuinely unusual for Donegal, and locals were making the most of every sunny moment. It’s these unplanned exchanges that often become the best travel memories.

Exploring Donegal’s Diamond

We wandered through the town center, taking in the colorful shopfronts and relaxed atmosphere. The Diamond, Donegal’s central square and historic market area, anchors the town with its obelisk memorial to the Four Masters, local historians who chronicled Irish history in the 1630s.

We stopped at Little Mama’s Café for coffee and pastries, watching locals go about their day. The town had an easygoing charm that made us wish we’d planned more time here.

Crossing Into Northern Ireland

With caffeine and sugar fueling us, we returned to the car park with a bittersweet realization: our Ireland adventure was winding down. Just two stops remained on our itinerary.

As we got back into the car, the thought settled in that our time in Ireland was ending, and that soon we’d be returning to the familiar rhythm of everyday life.

The border crossing into Northern Ireland was surprisingly understated, just a sign reading “Welcome to Northern Ireland” and a subtle shift from kilometers to miles on the road signs. No checkpoints, no fanfare. Just a continuation of the same beautiful landscape under the same Irish sky.

Milestone Tip: The only real change at the border is the speed limit signs switch from km/h to mph. Your rental car’s speedometer shows both, but it’s easy to miss the change if you’re not paying attention.

Giant’s Causeway: A Coast Shaped by Fire and Folklore

A UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Antrim Coast

Rising from the North Atlantic along County Antrim’s dramatic coastline, the Giant’s Causeway is a natural marvel. Over 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, formed by volcanic eruptions create a landscape that earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 1986. One of only four natural World Heritage Sites in the UK, it has fascinated scientists for centuries, offering insights into Earth’s volcanic past.

Protected and Accessible

The National Trust has cared for the Causeway since 1961, protecting about 70 hectares of land and 160 hectares of sea. Visitors can explore the stones and coastal paths for free, while the modern visitor center offers guided tours, exhibitions, and facilities for a fuller experience

Irish legend tells of the giant Fionn mac Cumhaill, who built the causeway to challenge his Scottish rival. Science explains it as volcanic basalt that cooled into near-perfect hexagons. Both stories capture its magic. Beyond the famous Grand Causeway, formations like the Organ, the Amphitheatre, and the Giant’s Boot rise dramatically along the coast, all part of the protected Causeway Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The Giant’s Causeway Hotel Experience

We had been looking forward to our stay at the Giant’s Causeway Hotel, and it exceeded every expectation. The location couldn’t be better, the hotel sits right beside the entrance, with the visitor center just steps from the walking paths.

This historic hotel has been welcoming travelers since 1836, offering a front-row seat to one of the world’s most extraordinary geological formations. We were surprised how close the walking paths were to the hotel parking area.

First Steps to the Stones: Shepherd’s Steps

Excited to finally see the famous hexagonal basalt columns, we headed straight out after checking in. The Giant’s Causeway is one of those places that feels otherworldly, a dramatic coastline shaped by myth and geology in equal measure.

From the visitor center, we took the steep Shepherd’s Steps down, the most direct and accessible path following the road down to the stones. It’s the quickest route to reach the basalt columns, perfect if you want to get right to the heart of this volcanic wonder.

Discovering Port Noffer Bay

Once you descend the steps, you’re greeted by Port Noffer (Bay of the Cow), where emerald grass bends to the Atlantic winds and for your short visit the ocean becomes your soundtrack. The contrast between the green clifftops and dark basalt below creates a scene that photos never quite capture.

Exploring the Main Formations: The Grand Causeway

Making our way along the coast, we finally arrived at The Grand Causeway, the main attraction where the basalt columns are largest, most regular, and densely packed. These stones step down toward the sea like a giant’s pathway, creating the iconic image that appears on every Northern Ireland postcard.

Standing on these perfectly geometric stones, formed by ancient lava cooling and cracking with mathematical precision, feels like walking on nature’s own art installation.

The Giant’s Gate

After exploring the main Causeway, we passed through the Giant’s Gate, a natural corridor of towering basalt columns that frames the path ahead, and followed the trail that leads up to the Organ and eventually the Amphitheatre.

The Organ and The Amphitheatre

After capturing the Causeway from every angle, we wandered along the paths to take in some of its most striking formations. Towering vertical columns known as the Organ rise like the pipes of a church against the cliff base, while the Giant’s Boot juts out in a shape that truly lives up to its name. The Amphitheatre, a natural bay framed by near-perfect columns, reveals its dramatic scale from both the shore and the clifftop.

We followed the Blue Trail from the visitor center and then linked up with the Red Trail, climbing above the Causeway to see the Amphitheatre from above. This loop provides some of the best perspectives, offering views of the Organ from the coastal path and sweeping vistas of the Amphitheatre before returning along the main road.

Evening at the Hotel

The evening slowed down in the best way possible. Dinner in the hotel dining room came with uninterrupted views of the coastline, the light fading gradually as the sea turned darker and the sky settled into muted tones. After a day shaped by wind, stone, and movement, it felt good to sit still and simply take it in. The meal was comforting and uncomplicated, exactly what the moment called for.

Later, we retreated to our room and let the night unfold quietly. A nightcap and The Quiet Man on the laptop felt like the natural choice, tying together the day’s themes of Irish landscapes and legends. It was an easy, unplanned ending, one that felt perfectly in step with the pace of the coast.

• Location: Giant’s Causeway, County Antrim, Northern Ireland
• Driving Time from Galway City: Approximately 4.5–5.5 hours (including border crossing and rest stops)
• Parking: Paid parking available at the Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre; shuttle or downhill walk to the stones
• Causeway or Area Size: Roughly 18 acres along the Antrim coastline
• Geology: Around 40,000 interlocking basalt columns formed by ancient volcanic activity
• UNESCO Status: UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986
• Legend: Linked to the Irish giant Finn McCool and a mythical crossing to Scotland
• Highlights: Hexagonal basalt columns, coastal cliffs, sea stacks, and Atlantic Ocean views
• Difficulty: Easy walking paths with uneven and slippery stone surfaces
• Time Needed: 2–4 hours for the causeway, viewpoints, and short coastal walks
• Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for fewer crowds and better light
• Weather Tip: Strong coastal winds and sudden weather changes are common

Dark Hedges – Kings Road

After the Causeway, we made a short detour to the famous Dark Hedges. Planted in the late 1700s by James Stuart to frame the entrance to his Gracehill House estate, the avenue has become one of Northern Ireland’s most photographed sights. Its tunnel of beech trees, their branches twisting overhead, creates an eerie yet beautiful canopy that feels almost otherworldly.

The site gained worldwide fame after appearing as the “King’s Road” in Game of Thrones. While social media makes it look serene and empty, the reality was far more crowded and less cinematic, even in the rain. Still, with its blend of history, myth, and the ghostly legend of the “Grey Lady”, it’s worth a stop.

• Location: Near Armoy/Stranocum, County Antrim, Northern Ireland
• Planted: Circa 1775 by James Stuart of Gracehill House
• Famous For: Featured as the “King’s Road” in Game of Thrones
• Tree Type: Beech trees forming a twisting, atmospheric canopy
• Legend: The “Grey Lady” ghost story tied to local folklore
• Time Needed: 30–60 minutes depending on photos and crowds
• Access Note: Walking only, no driving on Bregagh Road to preserve the trees
• Parking: Off the main B147 on Ballinlea Road at The Hedges Hotel / Dark Hedges Estate (short walk) – historically free, but some recent visitor reports suggest a small fee may apply (confirm locally)
• Parking Tip: Arrive early (before mid-morning) to secure a spot, especially in peak summer
• Best Tip: Visit early morning, just before sunrise, for the heaviest mist and most atmospheric photos.

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Belfast Experience: A City of History and Heart

Our final stop was Belfast, a city I had grown up hearing about through news reports of The Troubles. Visiting in person felt like an opportunity to connect the headlines of my childhood with the real people and places behind them — to understand the history not as distant conflict, but as lived experience.

The Black Cab Tour

We began with a Black Cab Tour, something I now consider essential for any visit to Belfast. Our driver, likely in his sixties, took us through Falls Road and Shankill, guiding us past murals, memorials, and the towering peace walls that still divide neighborhoods today.

What struck me most was that he wasn’t simply recounting history, he had lived it. Anyone his age or older carries personal memories of the violence that shaped Belfast from the late 1960s to 1998. These drivers are living archives, sharing stories that don’t appear in guidebooks.

The murals ranged from vibrant tributes to somber political messages, each one layered with meaning. Our driver pointed out details I would have missed: who painted which mural, why certain symbols were chosen, and which events sparked new artwork. When he mentioned that the gates of the peace walls still close at night, we were surprised. His tone made it clear — this wasn’t tourist trivia. It was daily life.

A City Moving Forward

What impressed me most was how Belfast carries its history without being defined by it. The murals and walls remain as reminders, but the people have found a way to move forward, acknowledging the past while building something new. There’s resilience here, and a quiet determination to keep healing.

Exploring the Cathedral Quarter

The next day, we explored the Cathedral Quarter on foot, weaving through typical Irish weather: rain, clouds, and the occasional burst of sun. The area is full of Victorian architecture, narrow lanes, and pubs tucked into every corner. We skipped the Titanic Experience, it’s a bit outside the city center and instead chose to wander.

Along Donegal Street, we stumbled upon a fascinating historical note: Belfast was the first place outside America to publish the Declaration of Independence in 1776, even before King George III received it. The Belfast News Letter took that risk despite British rule, a bold act that says a lot about the city’s spirit.

Where to Stay & Final Thoughts

If you visit, the Cathedral Quarter is an excellent place to stay. It’s walkable, lively, and close to shopping, pubs, and restaurants. And absolutely, book a Black Cab tour. It will transform how you see everything that follows.

Belfast provided a memorable finale to our Ireland journey, a city full of history, character, and resilience.

• Location: Northern Ireland, UK
• Top Experiences: Black Cab tour, murals, peace walls, Cathedral Quarter
• Driving Time: 1 hour from Giant’s Causeway
• Best Area to Stay: Cathedral Quarter
• Time Needed: 1–2 days
• Best Time to Visit: Late morning for tours; evenings for pubs and live music
• Tour Tip: Book your Black Cab tour in advance or ask your hotel for recommendations
• Prepare Ahead: Make a list of questions to ask your Black Cab driver
• Peace Wall Note: The peace walls close at night, many visitors don’t realize this
• Skip If Short on Time: Titanic Experience is farther from the city center
• Cathedral Quarter: Known for its Victorian architecture and vibrant pub scene

Why TK Maxx Isn’t a Typo: The Story Behind the Name

If you’ve ever walked down High Street in Belfast or any UK city and done a double‑take at that big TK Maxx sign, you’re definitely not alone, especially if you’re from the States and grew up knowing TJ Maxx. What feels like a typo or a quirky knock‑off actually has a smart reason behind it.

When the American off‑price retail giant TJX Companies decided to bring their treasure‑hunt shopping experience to the UK and Ireland in the mid‑1990s, they hit a naming snag: an existing British department store called T. J. Hughes already had rights to the “TJ” initials. To avoid confusion and potential trademark issues, they simply changed the J to a K and TK Maxx was born in 1994.

So no, it isn’t a typo, and it isn’t a lesser version of the American store. It’s the same parent company with the same off‑price, treasure‑hunt style of bargain hunting, just under a slightly different name because of trademark rules and local retail history.

Whether you’re cruising through Belfast or browsing deals in Dublin, now you know why that one letter makes all the difference.

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Wrap‑Up: Station House & the Journey Home

A Cozy Final Night at The Station House

We had one final night unbooked, and thankfully Angie came through with the win. She found us a room at The Station House, just 30 minutes outside Dublin. The property was charming, warm, inviting, and clearly a sought‑after wedding venue. A quick look at their website makes it obvious why. It was the perfect spot for our last night in Ireland: relaxing, cozy common areas, and a staff that was genuinely friendly and welcoming.

Airport Chaos & the Journey Home

Sleep was questionable, but we were up early and headed to the Dublin Airport. Our biggest worry was finding the rental car return, which, to our relief, was surprisingly easy. So far, so good… until we reached the main security line and discovered we needed a negative COVID test to fly home.

Wait – what.

Even in 2022, long after mask mandates had been lifted on planes, the U.S. still required all international travelers to present a negative test. Cue the stress. We rushed back outside to a small nurse’s station set up specifically for last‑minute testing. Thankfully, I’m the type who prefers arriving at the airport way too early rather than just on time. After the scramble, we made it to our gate with only a little time to spare. Not exactly the calm ending we’d hoped for, but memorable nonetheless.

Final Thoughts on Ireland

Looking back, Ireland was an incredible first trip, great food, good people, and more history packed into two weeks than we ever expected. It’s the kind of place that stays with you long after you’ve returned home. I think about it often, and I look forward to the day we go back to revisit our favorite spots and discover new ones along the way.

Slán go fóill (slawn guh foal) — goodbye for now.