Germany: A Journey Through History, Landscapes, and Culture
The Planning and the Family Crew
After our 2023 trip to Rome and the Mediterranean with my mother and aunt, we wanted something different for 2024. We chose a river cruise through Germany and Austria. The timing wasn’t random. My wife’s sister had just come through a tough year, and we hoped a trip might give her something positive to focus on.
When we floated the idea, my wife’s brother and his wife were eager to join, well, mostly his wife.
Big shout out to my brother-in-law for coming along too, as this was his first time flying more than just a couple of hours. It was also a first for the rest of the family, my two sisters-in-law and brother-in-law, traveling to Europe. And just like that, what started as a low-key river cruise for the two of us turned into a full-on five-person family adventure.
The Danube route made sense. It hits the major cities we wanted to see while keeping the logistics simple. No constant packing and unpacking, just board the ship and let the river do the work. We booked the river cruise with road trips through Bavaria and Austria, giving us both the relaxed pace of river travel and the freedom to explore on our own schedule.
After landing in Munich and picking up our rental car, we began what would become an 18-day journey through Bavaria’s countryside and cities rich in history. Once on the road, we quickly realized that traveling as a group of five brought a different and unique energy from our usual trips as a couple.
Bavaria – Austria Itinerary: Munich→Füssen→Grainau→Hallstatt (Austria)→Passau→River Cruise→Nuremberg→Munich
Neuschwanstein Castle, Füssen (fue-sen)
The drive from Munich Airport to Füssen took about ninety minutes. Nightfall came quickly, so by the time we arrived, there wasn’t much to do but check in and unwind.
Our hotel was Hotel Hirsch, and I can highly recommend this place. The property is well maintained, and our room was comfortable with all the necessary amenities. It’s a family-run gem that showcases rustic elegance. The interiors are a standout feature, with hardwood floors that creak when walked on and carefully crafted furnishings that give the space a timeless, authentic feel. The hotel has a lot of history, so if you visit, take a moment to look at the framed images along the main hallway. They’re a nice escape into a past world.
After resting and showering, we decided on dinner at the hotel. It offers several dining areas, each with its own unique character. There’s the historic hall, the original Bavarian ale house, or if visiting in summer, the cozy beer garden. We went with the original Bavarian ale house, and it didn’t disappoint. After dinner, we all took a night stroll into the old town and found a café for a nightcap of coffee and danishes. We turned in early since the next day’s agenda was visiting the castles at nearby Hohenschwangau village. The village sits at the base of the Alps and is the main hub offering plenty of restaurants, shops, and hotels. Hohenschwangau is the actual royal family residence where King Ludwig II grew up, and Neuschwanstein is his later, unfinished fairy tale dream palace built as a romantic fantasy.
Even though the village of Hohenschwangau is just a five-minute drive, I had to make sure we were all up, packed, and checked out on time. Thankfully, my in-laws made it to the car with luggage in hand, as I was determined to beat the day-trippers. Once everyone was loaded, we made the short scenic drive, parked, and hopped on the first shuttle bus to Neuschwanstein Castle.
We were dropped off at the Jugend lookout point, located above the castle, and walked a short distance to Marienbrücke (Mary’s Bridge). This is the spot to get the best photos and an unobstructed view of the castle. The bridge offers a stunning vantage point of Neuschwanstein and the valley below. Crossing the bridge, we followed the trail up to a higher lookout, which rewarded us with another breathtaking perspective. Absolutely worth it.
My in-laws decided to take the castle tour, and they seemed to really enjoy it. My wife and I, on the other hand, weren’t feeling it. We had looked into it beforehand and weren’t all that motivated. So instead, we took our time wandering the grounds, soaking in the views, and stopped for some hot coffee and chocolate at the little outdoor shop. It turned out to be a nice, relaxed way to enjoy the castle and get some nice photos of the valley below.
Partnachklamm Gorge, Grainau (gry-now)
After our castle visit, we drove into the charming town of Grainau, checked into our hotel, and took a short rest. Jet lag hit my brother‑in‑law hard, so he stayed behind while my wife, my two sisters‑in‑law, and I set out to explore the Partnachklamm Gorge.
The gorge is accessed near the historic Olympic Ski Stadium in Garmisch‑Partenkirchen. Built for the 1936 Winter Games, the stadium now serves as the main parking area and trailhead. From there, it’s about a 25‑minute walk along a mix of paved and gravel paths. The route winds through open meadows, past grazing animals, and toward the growing roar of rushing water. It’s an easy, scenic stroll that naturally builds anticipation.
As soon as you reach the entrance, the landscape shifts dramatically. What begins as a pleasant walk becomes an immersive canyon passage carved over thousands of years by the Partnach River. The gorge stretches nearly 700 meters and became safely accessible in 1912 when guide Josef Naus helped establish a trail along its cliffs, waterfalls, and powerful rapids.
The trail winds through narrow rock corridors, past thundering water below, dripping overhangs above, and tunnels cut directly into the cliffside. It’s an unforgettable transition from quiet open fields to one of Bavaria’s most breathtaking natural wonders.
At the end of the gorge, the scenery opens into a serene clearing where the river, forest, and surrounding mountains spread out. (Remember to hold onto your ticket; you’ll need it to pass through the turnstiles at the exit.) The landscape was a bit unexpected and picturesque at the same time. My wife and sisters-in-law made their way to the riverbank, completely enchanted by the smooth, colorful stones scattered along the edge. They spent nearly half an hour exploring, crouching by the water, laughing, and searching for the “perfect rock.” In my head, I kept thinking, They’re just rocks!
After exploring, we walked back through the gorge, seeing the path from a new angle. Once we exited, we headed toward the stadium parking area, enjoying the walk and the surroundings along the way.
Dinner was at Jägerstüberl Restaurant, where the locals eat; this place had a nice homey appeal. During the day, it offers beautiful Alpine views. I’m glad that I made reservations as this place was packed and thankfully, they had one English menu.
The next morning we met for Frühstück: a buffet of fresh rolls, cold cuts, cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, muesli, fruit, and plenty of coffee and juice. The morning stood out as we had the dining hall to ourselves, and Christian, our host, kept the coffee flowing. Meeting him felt familiar, the kind of brief connection that stays with you. Saying goodbye carried a touch of sadness, knowing we wouldn’t cross paths again. He was a solid host and ran a clean hotel.
Lake Eibsee, Grainau
A short drive brought us to our next destination: Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak at 9,718 feet. Unfortunately, snowy, overcast weather dashed our hopes of taking the cable car up for those sweeping 360‑degree summit views.
Undeterred, we parked at the Zugspitze cable car station at the mountain’s base and just a short stroll later, we were walking along the outer edge of Lake Eibsee, a 4.5 mile trail loop that circles the shore. We took it as a consolation prize. The trail circles the lake with mountain views and is one of southern Germany’s most rewarding short hikes. Even in the light rain, the trail was peaceful and scenic, lined with moss‑covered rocks and towering trees. I managed to capture a few photos before the rain grew heavier, sending us back to the car in a rush. This turned out to work in our favor, as it got us on the road earlier than expected.
Quick Anecdote
When you drive from Germany into Austria, you need to buy and display a vignette, it’s a prepaid toll sticker or digital pass, because Austria requires it for using their motorways.
On our way to Hallstatt, we stopped in Garmisch-Partenkirchen for gas. While my brother-in-law started pumping (pump first, pay after), I went inside to buy the vignette. When I asked if they sold the vignette, the clerk just said ‘no’, rudely. Fine. I walked out in a huff, and noticed another gas station right next door, so I tried that one.
When I walked in, the female clerk was wrapping up a conversation with a customer. She paused, said something in German, glanced at me, and they both laughed, most assuredly at my expense, but whatever. As the customer left, I walked up and asked, “Sprechen Sie Englisch?” She said yes, and from there everything was straightforward. I bought the vignette, thanked her, and headed back to the car.
I checked in with my brother-in-law.
“All good?”
“Yup.”
“Great.”
We drove off toward Hallstatt.
About a month later, I got an email saying I hadn’t paid for my gas and I owed the balance. Apparently, they opened a police report, reviewed the security footage, figured out I was in a rental, went to Enterprise, and got my info. Pretty solid detective work for something that happened a month earlier.
My lesson learned: I let the rude clerk get under my skin and walked out in a huff. I should’ve paid attention instead of assuming the payment was handled. Many Germans have the straightforward, no-nonsense style you hear about—but every now and then you meet someone who takes it too far. So, note to future self, just like the penguins from Madagascar say: Smile and wave, boys.
Hallstatt, Austria
The drive from Grainau to Hallstatt is normally about three and a half hours, but we took a longer, more scenic route. Germany really shines along the way, the Bavarian countryside is at its best here. The last five miles into Hallstatt take you through narrow mountain roads and a tunnel system that eventually leads past the designated parking areas outside the pedestrian-only village center. It’s an impressive stretch, but you need to pay attention to the signs in the tunnels.
Hallstatt sits between a calm lake and the steep Dachstein Alps. It’s considered one of the most beautiful villages in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Social media boosted its fame even more after people started comparing it to Arendelle from Frozen, but its real history goes back more than 7,000 years to the world’s oldest salt mine and the early Iron Age Hallstatt Culture.
The village gets an enormous amount of tourism, around one million visitors a year, and up to 10,000 people a day in peak season. The village’s global appeal became clear when China built a full-scale replica of the town in 2012.
Our BNB loft ended up being the highlight of the trip. We stayed in a converted mill, a Waldbachsäge, inherited from the owner’s grandmother and renovated into a modern apartment. It was in the perfect spot: just outside the village and a short walk to the famous church viewpoint. Even after the day-trippers left, the waterfront filled with photographers, everyone from beginners to pros, lining up their tripods and putting on their ND filters for that smooth long-exposure shot.
The loft sat right on the lake with direct water access. Every morning, swans showed up to forage for fallen apples along the private boat ramp. If you visit Hallstatt, slow down and enjoy it. Over two days we toured the salt mine, explored the ice cave, and took in the 5-Fingers lookout. The sights were incredible, but what really made the trip was where we stayed.
Hallstatt Town and Loft Gallery
Salt Mine, Rudolfsturm, and Skywalk Gallery
Ice Cave & 5-Fingers Gallery
Admont Abbey Library, Austria
Packing up the car is always a chore, but once everything is in place, the excitement takes over. After a chat with our host, Josef, we were off to the Admont Abbey Library in Austria.
Tucked away in the town of Admont along the Enns River in Styria, this masterpiece of history and design is the world’s largest monastic library. Founded in 1074 and connected to the Benedictine Abbey, it’s often cited on social media as the inspiration for Disney’s Beauty and the Beast library due to their shared Baroque architecture, white, gilded, multi-story bookcases and frescoed dome ceilings. While Disney has never officially confirmed this connection, the resemblance is striking.
Built in 1776, the library spans 70 meters with hidden doors, ornate statues, and intricate ceiling frescoes filling the halls. It houses approximately 200,000 volumes total, with more than 70,000 on display, ranging from theology to natural sciences, along with codices and medieval manuscripts created in the abbey’s own scriptorium dating back to the 12th century. Remarkably, this collection survived a devastating fire in 1865.
What caught our attention were Josef Stammel’s “The Four Last Things” from around 1760. These carved pieces show death in a very interesting way – Death, Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. Stammel (1695-1765) spent over four decades creating masterpieces like “The Four Last Things” for the Benedictine Admont Abbey, and from what I could find, his background was strictly artistic. So, he certainly went all out on the details, and each sculpture commands its own space in the library. They definitely make you stop and think when you’re viewing them up-close.
Passau → Viva Cruise Embarkation
After finishing our visit to the abbey, we drove to Passau for the river cruise portion of the trip, seven-days with Viva Cruises. Getting into Passau was easy enough, but reaching the dock for embarkation proved challenging due to traffic. Once we arrived, I dropped everyone off before tackling the next task: driving back across town to return the rental car to a local Enterprise, then arranging a taxi back to the dock, unwanted high stress for sure!
After I arrived at Enterprise, I checked in the car and got the all clear. But as I walked toward the street to wait for my taxi, I heard someone call me back. My first thought: This can’t be good.
When I returned, the attendant asked where I had damaged the tire rim. “What? Excuse me?” Apparently somewhere between Munich and Passau, I had scraped the front rim. Just what I needed while trying to make it back before embarkation. My stress level was already high, and this pushed it over the top. To make things worse, the manager had a completely indifferent attitude, pretty much the stereotype you expect but hope isn’t true.
I had insurance through my credit card, but that meant dealing with the claims process once I got home. Great. The taxi ride back to the dock was spent replaying the whole thing in my head, wondering how it even happened.
Not the start I wanted for the cruise, but after a couple of sparkling drinks, my mood finally shifted back into vacation mode.
Cruise Itinerary: Seven Days, Four Countries
Melk, Austria → Esztergom, Hungary → Budapest, Hungary → Bratislava, Slovakia → Vienna, Austria → Linz, Austria
Highlights along the Danube River
During our week-long cruise down the Danube, we docked in four countries, each port showcasing Central Europe’s distinct character. Here are some snapshots we captured along the way.
Melk, Austria The highlight was the massive Benedictine Abbey towering above the town. Visible for miles across the Wachau Valley, the abbey is a sprawling complex of Baroque splendor, including its famous library. We especially enjoyed wandering through the peaceful gardens, which offered panoramic views of the Danube. For images and information on the Abbey check out the following link Melk Abbey ↓
Esztergom, Hungary Once the capital of Hungary, Esztergom provided a memorable excursion. Our guide shared stories of Soviet occupation, religious suppression, and resilience. The basilica, though in need of much restoration, is an impressive structure perched on a hill, it stands out in contrast to the rest of the surrounding landscape. ↓
Budapest, Hungary Budapest truly lives up to its nickname, “The Pearl of the Danube.” We had an excellent walking tour with a knowledgeable guide and the highlight was our evening river cruise, where we sailed by the illuminated Parliament Building and waterfront. The Great Market Hall was worth the stop as well. ↓
Bratislava, Slovakia This capital featured a charming Old Town, but beyond that, it didn’t leave a strong impression. A pleasant visit, but not a standout. ↓
Vienna, Austria Vienna truly has an age-old vibe, with its grand architecture, rich history, and different shopping experiences. ↓
Linz, Austria Our final stop offered a mix of historical charm and modern artistic flair. We strolled through the old town, enjoyed coffee and pastries at a lovely café, and did some shopping. I found a fantastic vintage shop and picked up a few well-aged postcards and a couple of World War I service pins. ↓
Final Thoughts Exploring several countries by river cruise was a unique experience. But not sure if we’d do it again, it was certainly memorable.
Passau to Nuremberg Along the Road of History
After our river cruise, we disembarked in Passau and took some time to explore the downtown. We strolled around, did a bit of shopping, and stopped at a great spot for fish and chips. After that, I had the unfavorable task of walking to pick up the rental car from Enterprise. A mile of walking later and I was driving back to pick up everyone and start driving to Nuremberg.
Making good time, I decided to venture off course and stop at Walhalla. Massive in size and ornate in style, the Walhalla is a neo-classical hall of fame built between 1830 and 1842 by King Ludwig I to honor notable figures of German history. Inspired by Norse mythology’s Valhalla, it houses 130 busts and 65 plaques celebrating politicians, scientists, artists, and resistance fighters from across 2,000 years. With its stunning architecture and rich historical significance, the Walhalla remains a powerful tribute to German heritage. We spent enough time to walk around and snap a few pictures with the Danube as our backdrop and then back on the highway to complete the 2.5-hour drive. An impressive structure and a must see if you are in the area.
After the long drive and hotel check-in, we walked to a nearby restaurant, Papa Walters. This charming place looked like a converted apartment complex or house, giving it a welcoming, homey vibe.
The next morning, we met our guide, Andreas, and traveled by train to the Rally Grounds just outside Nuremberg.
Side note: Before getting on the train, we took a quick bathroom break. While waiting for the others, I was approached by 3 state police who asked for my ID. I guess I looked out of place while standing there, minding my own business. Thankfully, I spotted Andreas, who was able to explain to them that I was traveling and part of his tour group. That was an interesting experience, one I hope to never repeat.
After arriving by train, we walked along the nearby man-made lake to the Congress Hall, then continued to the Zeppelinfeld. The Congress Hall, intended to hold 50,000 people, was never completed, it stands today as a massive unfinished colosseum, now housing a documentation center about the Nazi era.
The Zeppelinfeld, designed by Albert Speer for the Nazi party, served as the main parade ground for the annual Nuremberg Rallies from 1933 to 1938. These weren’t small gatherings, up to 200,000 participants would fill the field while Hitler spoke from the grandstand. This is where those infamous torchlight processions and displays of military might took place, all carefully choreographed for propaganda films like Leni Riefenstahl’s “Triumph of the Will.”
The grandstand itself became famous for a different reason in 1945, when the U.S. Army blew up the massive swastika crowning it during their victory parade, a symbolic end to the Nazi regime in the very place where it had staged its biggest spectacles. After decades of deliberate neglect (letting it crumble was seen as appropriate), officials faced a dilemma: let it disappear or preserve it as a warning. In 2019, they launched an 85 million euro restoration plan, not to glorify but to stabilize the structures for educational purposes. Standing there, you can’t help but feel the weight of what these stones witnessed, the rallies, the war that followed, and now the school groups learning what happens when human depravity goes unchecked.
Following the Rally Grounds tour, we took a bus into Old Town, where Andreas guided us around, sharing insights into Nuremberg’s history and its unique balance of medieval charm and sobering World War II past.
Nuremberg’s story is really two cities in one. For centuries, it was the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire, the place where emperors held their first Imperial Diet and where the crown jewels were kept. Walking through the Old Town, you see this medieval powerhouse everywhere: the massive Kaiserburg fortress looming over red-roofed buildings, the beautiful Gothic churches, and the old city walls that still encircle much of the center. This was Albrecht Dürer’s city, where Renaissance art and culture flourished.
But Andreas didn’t let us forget why the Nazis chose this particular city for their rallies. They wanted to link themselves to that imperial past, to suggest they were the natural continuation of German greatness. The irony, of course, is that Allied bombing destroyed 90% of the Old Town in January 1945. What we were walking through was largely rebuilt after the war, stone by stone, using rubble from the destroyed buildings, a massive undertaking that took decades.
After exploring the distinctive layout of Old Town, Andreas recommended a great Franconian restaurant, Wirtshaus Hütt’n. The pork knuckle and red ale were delicious, and we had a wonderful time during lunch as he continued to share stories about how locals navigate their city’s complex legacy, proud of its medieval heritage while ensuring its darkest chapter is never forgotten.
Munich and Dachau Across Time and Memory
The last leg of our journey took us from Nuremberg to Munich, a 2.5-hour drive that felt like the beginning of the end. As the trip wound down, I realized I’d grown fond of the daily rhythm of packing up and hitting the road. What once felt like a chore had become part of the adventure itself.
Driving into the city, we were immediately struck by the sheer number of cyclists weaving through the streets. The mix of modern energy and historic architecture gave Munich a vibrant edge. After checking into our hotel, we each set off to explore different corners of the city, following our own curiosities.
My path led me to Marienplatz, the beating heart of Munich’s old town. Surrounded by Gothic spires and bustling crowds, the square radiated energy. From there, I wandered into a traditional beer hall, where Bavarian cuisine and generous pours of local beer awaited.
One quirky tradition worth noting: if you’re a small party, expect to be seated with a larger group at the same table. It’s a cultural norm that can feel awkward at first, but it’s part of the communal spirit of Bavarian dining.
After indulging in more beer than I probably should have, I somehow managed to send an SOS message to my sister-in-law. On my way back to the hotel, I bumped into her and the rest of our group. In a twist of irony, we ended up at KFC, a fast-food detour that stood in hilarious contrast to the hearty Bavarian feast I’d just enjoyed.
Back at the hotel, my brother-in-law, sister-in-law, and I capped off the evening with one final drink at the bar. The bartender shared his own story, and it felt like the perfect closing note to a relaxed first night in Munich.
Dachau in Reflection
The next morning brought a complete shift in tone. While I couldn’t check everything off my Munich list, I made sure to visit the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site. It ended up being the most significant part of my entire Germany trip.
Dachau holds a particular place in Nazi history, it was the first concentration camp, opened in March 1933, just weeks after Hitler came to power. Originally intended for political prisoners, it became the model for all other camps that followed. Heinrich Himmler appointed Theodor Eicke as commandant, and Eicke’s systematic brutality became the blueprint for the entire concentration camp system. The guards trained here would go on to run camps across Nazi-occupied Europe.
Walking through the reconstructed barracks, you see how the camp evolved from housing 5,000 prisoners to cramming in over 30,000 by 1945. The museum doesn’t hide the progression, from early propaganda photos showing “humane” conditions to the reality of forced labor, medical experiments, and mass murder. Over 200,000 prisoners passed through Dachau; at least 41,500 were murdered here.
The crematorium area hits especially hard. Built in 1942, it includes a gas chamber disguised as a shower room. While historians debate how extensively it was used for mass killings compared to camps like Auschwitz, its mere existence shows the infrastructure of genocide being perfected. Standing in that room, reading “Brausebad” (shower bath) above fake shower heads, knowing prisoners stood where you’re standing, it’s overwhelming.
What struck me most was the memorial created by survivors. The International Memorial, designed by Nandor Glid (himself a Yugoslav Holocaust survivor), shows skeletal figures caught in barbed wire. The inscription in multiple languages reads “Never Again.” Former prisoners insisted on preserving Dachau as a warning, ensuring future generations could see where hatred and dehumanization lead.
The memorial is easily accessible, a 20-minute S-Bahn ride from Munich followed by a short bus trip. I’d strongly recommend taking a guided tour. The historians who lead them provide crucial context you might miss on your own, like pointing out where the SS quarters were (now a Bavarian police training facility) and explaining how locals claimed they didn’t know what was happening despite the camp being clearly visible from town.
The Marienplatz, Rathaus-Glockenspiel, Law Libray Tour and things we missed!
After our tour of Dachau, we made our way back to Marienplatz to watch the Rathaus-Glockenspiel, one of Munich’s most beloved attractions. Installed in 1908, this ornate clock features 43 bells and 32 life‑sized figures that reenact two Bavarian stories: a jousting tournament celebrating Duke Wilhelm V’s wedding in 1568, and the coopers’ dance commemorating the end of the plague in 1517. Each performance lasts about 12–15 minutes and concludes with a golden rooster crowing three times. Crowds gather daily at 11 a.m. and 12 p.m., with an additional 5 p.m. show from March to October, making it a lively blend of history, tradition, and entertainment in the heart of the city. While the Glockenspiel carries plenty of history and tradition to appreciate, my wife and I couldn’t help but laugh at the crowds oohing and ahhing. The old, weathered mechanics are charming, but there’s nothing about them that truly warrants such “amazement.”
Our timing worked out seamlessly, just as the Glockenspiel finished, we strolled a short distance to the New City Hall for a tour of its historic Law Library. Tucked inside the Town Hall, this is not only a photogenic gem but also a working library still used by scholars and students today. Popularized by TikTok and Instagram, the space feels straight out of a fairytale. Its Art Nouveau design, wrought‑iron spiral staircases, and towering shelves of books have made it a favorite stop for visitors chasing that “Hogwarts” or Beauty and the Beast vibe. Access is only possible through guided tours, which makes the experience feel all the more special.
With only a day and a half in Munich, my ambitious list quickly collided with reality. The Munich Residenz, the sprawling palace that housed Bavarian monarchs for centuries, went unseen. So did Nymphenburg Palace, the “Castle of the Nymphs,” with its vast baroque gardens. I had hoped to wander the English Garden and watch locals surf the Eisbach wave, yes, river surfing in the middle of Munich has been a tradition since the 1970s, but time slipped away. Poor planning meant I also missed climbing to the top of the Frauenkirche or St. Peter’s Church for panoramic views, pity.
If you go, plan for more than a half‑day just around Marienplatz alone. Between the Glockenspiel, the churches, and the surrounding sights, you’ll want the extra time to truly take it all in.
Reflections on Our German Journey
Germany delivered everything we hoped for, castles, gorges, rich history, and beautiful landscapes. While we sometimes found the locals dismissive (that famous German directness can feel harsh), there were also moments of genuine warmth. We even met a street vendor from Guatemala who’d traveled the world before settling in Germany as his permanent residence, his story alone was worth the conversation.
Austria, though, completely won us over. We’re already planning a return trip to that converted mill loft in Hallstatt.
After 18 days of constant movement through four countries, what stays with me isn’t just the famous sights but the rhythm of the journey itself, the daily packing that became routine, the unexpected detours that became highlights, and the family dynamics that added complexity but also depth to every experience. Sometimes the best trips aren’t the smoothest ones, but the ones that push you out of your comfort zone and leave you with stories worth telling.