Germany: A Journey Through History, Landscapes, and Culture
Planning the Perfect Multi-Generational Germany Trip
After our 2023 Mediterranean cruise with my mother and aunt, we craved something different for 2024, a river cruise through Germany’s Bavaria heartland. The timing felt right. My wife’s sister had weathered a challenging year, and we thought a European adventure might offer a welcome change of pace. When we mentioned the idea, my wife’s brother and his wife immediately wanted in (well, mostly his wife, but credit to my brother-in-law for embracing his first transatlantic flight).
For three of our travel companions, this would be their first European adventure. What started as a quiet river cruise for two transformed into a five-person family expedition.
Why a Danube River Cruise Through Germany and Austria
The Danube route was an easy choice. It offered iconic cities, fairy-tale castles, and simple logistics. We unpacked once, settled into our stateroom, and let Europe’s second-longest river set the pace. After the cruise, we rented a car and drove through Bavaria to Munich, shifting from the structure of river travel to the flexibility of exploring on our own.
The Journey Begins: Munich to the Passau
Our 18-day odyssey began in Munich on October 11, 2024. After collecting our rental car, we discovered that traveling as a party of five added an entirely different dynamic to our usual couples’ adventures, more laughter, more logistics, and definitely more opinions on where to eat.
Our Complete 18-Day Germany Itinerary
Pre-Cruise Land Journey (7 Days):
- Munich (Starting Point)
- Füssen (Neuschwanstein Castle)
- Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Bavarian Alps)
- Hallstatt, Austria (Alpine Lake Town)
- Passau (Embarkation City – Where Three Rivers Meet)
Danube River Cruise (7 Days):
- Passau, Germany
- Melk, Austria
- Esztergom, Hungary
- Budapest, Hungary
- Bratislava, Slovakia
- Vienna, Austria
- Linz (Danube), Austria
- Passau, Germany
Post-Cruise Exploration (4 Days):
- Walhalla (memorial)
- Nuremberg (Medieval History)
- Munich (Final Days & Departure)
Füssen & Neuschwanstein Castle: Bavaria’s Fairy Tale Corner
The drive from Munich Airport to Füssen took about ninety minutes. Nightfall came quickly, so by the time we arrived, there wasn’t much to do but check in and unwind.
Staying at Hotel Hirsch
Our hotel was Hotel Hirsch, and I can highly recommend this place. The property is well maintained, and our room was comfortable with all the necessary amenities. It’s a family-run gem that showcases rustic elegance. The interiors are a standout feature, with hardwood floors that creak when walked on and carefully crafted furnishings that give the space a timeless, authentic feel. The hotel has a lot of history, so if you visit, take a moment to look at the framed images along the main hallway. They’re a nice escape into a past world.
Dinner and a Night Stroll
After resting and showering, we decided on dinner at the hotel. It offers several dining areas, each with its own unique character. There’s the historic hall, the original Bavarian ale house, or if visiting in summer, the cozy beer garden. We went with the original Bavarian ale house, and it didn’t disappoint. After dinner, we all took a night stroll into the old town and found a café for a nightcap of coffee and danishes. We turned in early since the next day’s agenda was visiting the castles at nearby Hohenschwangau village.
The History Behind Bavaria’s Iconic Castles
Hohenschwangau is a small Alpine village surrounded by forests, lakes, and two castles that shaped the life of King Ludwig II. Hohenschwangau Castle, rebuilt in the 1830s by King Maximilian II, served as Ludwig’s childhood home. Its mural‑lined rooms, filled with medieval legends, swan motifs, and heroic tales, helped spark the romantic ideals that later defined his reign.
Across the ridge stands Neuschwanstein, the dramatic expression of those early inspirations. Construction began in 1869, blending Wagnerian mythology, medieval revival architecture, and Ludwig’s desire for solitude. The castle was never completed, and Ludwig lived there only briefly before his mysterious death in 1886. Together, the two castles trace the arc of his life: one rooted in reality, the other built from imagination.
Walking through the village today, it’s easy to see how the landscape shaped him. The same mountains that framed his childhood still rise behind both castles, and the valley retains a quiet, dreamlike quality. Hohenschwangau reflects where Ludwig came from; Neuschwanstein reveals what he longed for.
Marienbrücke and the Castle Views
We started the morning early to stay ahead of the day‑trippers. Once everyone was packed and checked out, we made the short scenic drive to Hohenschwangau, parked, and caught the first shuttle bus up toward Neuschwanstein.
The shuttle dropped us at the Jugend lookout point above the castle. From there, it was a short walk to Marienbrücke (Mary’s Bridge), the classic spot for unobstructed views and the best photos of Neuschwanstein perched above the valley. After taking in the panorama, we crossed the bridge and followed the trail to a higher viewpoint, which offered an even more dramatic perspective. Absolutely worth the climb.
Exploring the Grounds
My in‑laws decided to take the castle tour and enjoyed it. My wife and I weren’t feeling it, we had looked into it beforehand and weren’t particularly motivated, so we spent the time wandering the grounds instead. We soaked in the views, snapped photos, and grabbed hot coffee and chocolate from the small outdoor shop. It turned out to be a relaxed, enjoyable way to experience the castle and the valley below.
Partnachklamm Gorge, Grainau (gry-now)
Arriving in Grainau
After our castle visit, we drove into the charming town of Grainau, checked into our hotel, and took a short rest. Jet lag hit my brother‑in‑law hard, so he stayed behind while my wife, my two sisters‑in‑law, and I set out to explore the Partnachklamm Gorge.
Getting to the Gorge
The gorge is accessed near the historic Olympic Ski Stadium in Garmisch‑Partenkirchen. Built for the 1936 Winter Games, the stadium now serves as the main parking area and trailhead. From there, it’s about a 25‑minute walk along a mix of paved and gravel paths. The route winds through open meadows, past grazing animals, and toward the growing roar of rushing water. It’s an easy, scenic stroll that naturally builds anticipation.
Entering the Gorge
As soon as you reach the entrance, the landscape shifts dramatically. What begins as a pleasant walk becomes an immersive canyon passage carved over thousands of years by the Partnach River. The gorge stretches nearly 700 meters and became safely accessible in 1912 when guide Josef Naus helped establish a trail along its cliffs, waterfalls, and powerful rapids.
Inside the Canyon
The trail winds through narrow rock corridors, past thundering water below, dripping overhangs above, and tunnels cut directly into the cliffside. It’s an unforgettable transition from quiet open fields to one of Bavaria’s most breathtaking natural wonders.
Here’s a real‑time look of Partnachklamm Gorge.
The Clearing at the End
At the end of the gorge, the scenery opens into a serene clearing where the river, forest, and surrounding mountains spread out. (Remember to hold onto your ticket; you’ll need it to pass through the turnstiles at the exit.) The landscape was a bit unexpected and picturesque at the same time. My wife and sisters-in-law made their way to the riverbank, completely enchanted by the smooth, colorful stones scattered along the edge. They spent nearly half an hour exploring, crouching by the water, laughing, and searching for the “perfect rock.” In my head, I kept thinking, They’re just rocks!
Walking Back
After exploring, we walked back through the gorge, seeing the path from a new angle. Once we exited, we headed toward the stadium parking area, enjoying the walk and the surroundings along the way.
Dinner in Grainau
Dinner was at Jägerstüberl Restaurant, where the locals eat; this place had a nice homey appeal. During the day, it offers beautiful Alpine views. I’m glad that I made reservations as this place was packed and thankfully, they had one English menu.
Breakfast Farewell
The next morning we met for Frühstück: a buffet of fresh rolls, cold cuts, cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, muesli, fruit, and plenty of coffee and juice. The morning stood out as we had the dining hall to ourselves, and Christian, our host, kept the coffee flowing. Meeting him felt familiar, the kind of brief connection that stays with you. Saying goodbye carried a touch of sadness, knowing we wouldn’t cross paths again. He was a solid host and ran a clean hotel.
Lake Eibsee, Grainau
A short drive brought us to the base of Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak at 9,718 feet. Unfortunately, snowy, overcast weather dashed our hopes of taking the cable car up for those sweeping 360‑degree summit views.
Our Lake Eibsee Rainy Consolation Hike
Undeterred, we parked at the Zugspitze cable car station at the mountain’s base and just a short stroll later, we were walking along the outer edge of Lake Eibsee, a 4.5 mile trail loop that circles the shore. We took it as a consolation prize.
The trail circles the lake with mountain views and is one of southern Germany’s most rewarding short hikes. Even in the light rain, the trail was peaceful and scenic, lined with moss‑covered rocks and towering trees. I managed to capture a few photos before the rain grew heavier, sending us back to the car in a rush. This turned out to work in our favor, as it got us on the road earlier than expected.
The Garmisch Gas Station Mishap
Before crossing into Austria, you’ll need a vignette—a prepaid toll sticker for their motorways. We stopped in Garmisch-Partenkirchen to fuel up and buy one.
At the gas station, my brother-in-law started pumping (standard in Germany: pump first, pay inside after) while I went to buy the vignette. The clerk’s response to my English question? A curt “no” with a look that could freeze beer. Fine. I walked out, irritated, and spotted another station next door.
Inside station #2, the clerk was chatting with a customer. She said something in German, glanced my way, and they both laughed—definitely at my expense. But when I asked “Sprechen Sie Englisch?” she switched gears completely. Vignette purchased, crisis averted.
Back at the car:
“All good?”
“Yup.”
And off to Hallstatt we went.
The Surprise Follow‑Up
A month later, an email landed in my inbox: unpaid gas, police report filed. The station owner had reviewed the footage, realized the car was a rental, and German authorities tracked me down through Enterprise. Fortunately, the owner was reasonable. I paid the €50 via PayPal and apologized for the mix‑up.
Hallstatt, Austria
The Scenic Drive In
The drive from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Hallstatt typically takes 3.5 hours, but we opted for the scenic route, Bavaria at its best. Rolling farmland, onion-domed churches, and the Alps growing larger with each mile made the detour worthwhile.
Arriving at the Village
The final approach demands attention: five miles of narrow mountain roads funneling through tunnels before reaching the village gates. As we pulled up, the parking attendant was already waving us away, his automatic response to the hundredth car that day. We had to stop him mid-gesture: “We’re staying inside, we have a booking.” He paused, clearly thrown off script, then waved us through. Probably the first non-local he’d let pass all week.
A Village With Ancient Roots
Hallstatt sits between a calm lake and the steep Dachstein Alps. It’s considered one of the most beautiful villages in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Social media boosted its fame even more after people started comparing it to Arendelle from Frozen, but its real history goes back more than 7,000 years to the world’s oldest salt mine and the early Iron Age Hallstatt Culture.
The village gets an enormous amount of tourism, around one million visitors a year, and up to 10,000 people a day in peak season. The village’s global appeal became clear when China built a full-scale replica of the town in 2012.
Staying in a Converted Mill
Our BNB loft ended up being the highlight of the trip. We stayed in a converted mill, a Waldbachsäge, inherited from the owner’s grandmother and renovated into a modern apartment. It was in the perfect spot: just outside the village and a short walk to the famous church viewpoint. Even after the day-trippers left, the waterfront filled with photographers, everyone from beginners to pros, lining up their tripods and putting on their ND filters for that smooth long-exposure shot.
Life on the Lake
The loft sat right on the lake with direct water access. Every morning, swans showed up to forage for fallen apples along the private boat ramp. If you visit Hallstatt, slow down and enjoy it. Over two days we toured the salt mine, explored the ice cave, and took in the 5-Fingers lookout. The sights were incredible, but what really made the trip was where we stayed.
Salt Mine, Rudolfsturm, and Skywalk Gallery
Ice Cave & 5-Fingers Gallery
Admont Abbey Library, Austria
From Hallstatt to History
Packing up the car is always a chore, but once everything is in place, the excitement takes over. After a chat with our host, Josef, we set off for one of Austria’s most spectacular hidden gems: Admont Abbey Library. Tucked in the small town of Admont along the Enns River in Styria, this isn’t just any library, it’s the world’s largest monastic library.
The Possible Disney Connection
Social media loves claiming this Baroque masterpiece inspired Disney’s Beauty and the Beast library and it’s easy to see why. The white and gilded multi‑story bookcases, frescoed ceilings, and theatrical sense of scale mirror Disney’s vision almost perfectly. Disney has never confirmed a direct connection to Admont Abbey, but the resemblance is undeniable.
A Baroque Masterpiece That Survived Fire
Completed in 1776 and connected to the Benedictine Abbey founded in 1074, Admont Abbey Library stretches 70 meters and showcases the height of late‑Baroque design. Hidden doors, ornate sculptures, and elaborate ceiling frescoes create one of the most dramatic library interiors in Europe.
The collection holds around 200,000 volumes, with more than 70,000 on display, including medieval manuscripts and codices produced in the abbey’s own scriptorium dating back to the 12th century. Remarkably, this entire collection survived the devastating 1865 fire that destroyed much of the monastery. As the abbey’s own records note, “Everything has been burnt down except for the library.”
Today, Admont Abbey Library remains one of Austria’s most photographed cultural landmarks, a Baroque treasure that narrowly escaped history.
Josef Stammel’s Haunting “Four Last Things”
The library’s most striking feature isn’t books it’s Josef Stammel’s carved wooden sculptures from 1760 representing “The Four Last Things”: Death, Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. These aren’t your typical library decorations.
These carved pieces show death in a very interesting way – Death, Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. Stammel (1695-1765) spent over four decades creating masterpieces like “The Four Last Things” for the Benedictine Admont Abbey, and from what I could find, his background was strictly artistic. So, he certainly went all out on the details, and each sculpture commands its own space in the library. They definitely make you stop and think when you’re viewing them up-close.
Passau Embarkation: Starting Our Danube River Cruise
After touring Admont Abbey, we drove to Passau, the starting point for our seven-day Danube cruise with Viva Cruises. Finding the city? Easy. Reaching the dock through Passau’s maze of one-way streets? Not so much.
I dropped my family at the gangway with the luggage, then faced the solo mission: return the rental car to Enterprise across town and taxi back before the 4 PM embarkation deadline. Nothing like manufactured stress to spice up vacation day.
The Rental Car Plot Twist
At Enterprise, the initial inspection went smoothly and apparently, received the all clear. Until I started walking toward my waiting taxi.
“Sir? Sir!”
That callback is never good news.
When I returned, the attendant asked where I had damaged the tire rim. “What? Excuse me?” Apparently somewhere between Munich and Passau, I’d kissed a curb hard enough to leave a mark on the front rim.
Stress Before Embarkation
Exactly what I needed while trying to make it back before embarkation. My stress level was already high, and this pushed it over the edge. The manager’s indifferent attitude didn’t help, the kind of stereotype you hope isn’t true but occasionally encounter.
I had insurance through my credit card, but that meant dealing with the claims process once I got home. Perfect. The taxi ride back to the dock was spent replaying the whole thing in my head, wondering how it even happened.
Back to Vacation Mode
Not the start I wanted for the cruise, but after a couple of sparkling drinks, my mood finally shifted back into vacation mode.
Cruise Itinerary: Seven Days, Four Countries
Route Overview
Melk, Austria → Esztergom, Hungary → Budapest, Hungary → Bratislava, Slovakia → Vienna, Austria → Linz, Austria
Highlights Along the Danube
During our week‑long cruise down the Danube, we docked in four countries, each port showcasing its own distinct character. These stops offered a mix of history, architecture, river views, and local culture, a perfect snapshot of Central Europe from the water.
Here are some of the moments we captured along the way.
Melk, Austria The highlight was the massive Benedictine Abbey towering above the town. Visible for miles across the Wachau Valley, the abbey is a sprawling complex of Baroque splendor, including its famous library. We especially enjoyed wandering through the peaceful gardens, which offered panoramic views of the Danube. For images and information on the Abbey check out the following link Melk Abbey ↓
Esztergom, Hungary Once the capital of Hungary, Esztergom provided a memorable excursion. Our guide shared stories of Soviet occupation, religious suppression, and resilience. The basilica, though in need of much restoration, is an impressive structure perched on a hill, it stands out in contrast to the rest of the surrounding landscape. ↓
Budapest, Hungary Budapest truly lives up to its nickname, “The Pearl of the Danube.” We had an excellent walking tour with a knowledgeable guide and the highlight was our evening river cruise, where we sailed by the illuminated Parliament Building and waterfront. The Great Market Hall was worth the stop as well. ↓
Bratislava, Slovakia This capital featured a charming Old Town, but beyond that, it didn’t leave a strong impression. A pleasant visit, but not a standout. ↓
Vienna, Austria Vienna truly has an age-old vibe, with its grand architecture, rich history, and different shopping experiences. ↓
Linz, Austria Our final stop offered a mix of historical charm and modern artistic flair. We strolled through the old town, enjoyed coffee and pastries at a lovely café, and did some shopping. I found a fantastic vintage shop and picked up a few well-aged postcards and a couple of World War I service pins. ↓
River Cruise Final Thoughts
Exploring multiple countries by river cruise was a memorable way to travel, effortless, scenic, and surprisingly immersive. Sailing straight into the center of historic cities and only unpacking once definitely had its perks.
But river cruising has its own pace: early mornings and quieter evenings. It was a great one‑time experience, and we’re glad we did it, but we’re not entirely sure it fits our travel style long‑term.
Still, watching Europe unfold from the water is something we won’t forget.
Passau to Nuremberg Along the Road of History
Exploring Passau Before the Drive
After our river cruise, we disembarked in Passau and spent some time exploring the downtown. We walked along Ludwigstraße, one of the city’s main shopping streets, browsing boutiques, shoe stores, and cafés. We even stepped inside the Marianische Votivkirche, the small votive church tucked right along the street, before grabbing fish and chips nearby.
Then came the less glamorous part of the afternoon: my mile‑long walk to pick up the rental car from Enterprise. Once I finally had the car, I looped back to collect everyone and we set off toward Nuremberg.
A Detour to Walhalla
Making good time on the road, I decided to take a short detour to Walhalla, and it was absolutely worth it. Massive and commanding above the Danube, Walhalla is a neo‑classical hall of fame built between 1830 and 1842 by King Ludwig I to honor notable figures from German history. Inspired by the mythic Valhalla of Norse legend, it contains 130 busts and 65 plaques commemorating politicians, scientists, artists, and resistance fighters spanning more than 2,000 years.
A Short Stop With Big Views
Leaving Passau and heading toward Nuremberg, the drive is direct and easy on the Autobahn. We made a quick stop at McDonald’s, near Obertraubling and then circled back toward Donaustauf. Even in the rain, the area was beautiful. The road narrows into a winding two‑lane route that climbs gently through small villages and open countryside — rolling hills, patches of forest, and occasional glimpses of the Danube as you get closer to the memorial.
As we approached Walhalla, the road became more rural, curving through quiet neighborhoods before leading to the designated parking area. It runs on a simple honor‑system setup: no gate, no attendant, just a posted fee and a machine where you pay.
The parking lot sits below the memorial, and the structure isn’t visible from there. Instead, you follow a half‑mile uphill path that winds through a canopy of trees. In autumn, the entire walkway glows with orange and gold leaves, creating a peaceful approach to the site.
At the top, Walhalla finally comes into view, massive, white, and commanding above the river. The doors were open when we arrived, so we peeked inside just long enough to see the marble interior and rows of busts lining the hall. Impressive, no question, but we chose to keep our visit outdoors and stay on the move.
We walked the grounds, took in the sweeping views over the Danube, snapped a few photos, and then continued the drive to Nuremberg. Even without going inside, Walhalla was absolutely worth the detour.
You can get a real‑time feel for the walkway from the video I shot during our visit.
Nuremberg: Where Medieval Glory Meets Modern Remembrance
Settling Into Franconia’s Former Imperial Capital
After the drive from our river cruise and hotel check-in, we found Papa Walters, a charming restaurant housed in what looked like a converted apartment building. The homey atmosphere provided the perfect welcome to Nuremberg, a city that would challenge us to reconcile its medieval grandeur with its darkest chapter.
An Unexpected Police Encounter
The next morning, we met our guide, Andreas, and traveled by train to the Rally Grounds just outside Nuremberg.
Side note: Before getting on the train, we took a quick bathroom break. While waiting for the others, three state police approached me for ID. Standing alone, apparently, I looked suspicious enough to warrant attention. Fortunately, Andreas arrived in time to explain I was part of his tour group. Not exactly the cultural exchange I’d planned, but definitely memorable.
Nazi Rally Grounds: Monuments to Propaganda
We took the train to the Rally Grounds outside Nuremberg, walking along an artificial lake to the massive Congress Hall, intended for 50,000 people but never completed. Today this unfinished colosseum houses a documentation center about the Nazi era.
The real centerpiece is Zeppelinfeld, Albert Speer’s parade ground for the annual Nuremberg Rallies (1933-1938). Up to 200,000 participants filled this field while Hitler spoke from the grandstand, the setting for those infamous torchlight processions captured in Leni Riefenstahl’s “Triumph of the Will.”
Historical irony: In 1945, the U.S. Army symbolically ended the Nazi regime by blowing up the massive swastika that crowned the grandstand, right where the regime had staged its biggest spectacles.
The preservation dilemma: After decades of deliberate neglect, officials launched an €85 million restoration in 2019, not to glorify, but to preserve these structures for education. Standing there, you feel the weight of history: the rallies, the war that followed, and now school groups learning what happens when hatred goes unchecked.
Old Town: Two Cities, One Complex Legacy
Following the Rally Grounds tour, we took a bus into Old Town, where Andreas guided us around, sharing insights into Nuremberg’s history and its unique balance of medieval charm and sobering World War II past.
Nuremberg’s story is really two cities in one. For centuries, it was the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire, the place where emperors held their first Imperial Diet and where the crown jewels were kept. Walking through the Old Town, you see this medieval powerhouse everywhere: the massive Kaiserburg fortress looming over red-roofed buildings, the beautiful Gothic churches, and the old city walls that still encircle much of the center. This was Albrecht Dürer’s city, where Renaissance art and culture flourished.
But Andreas didn’t let us forget why the Nazis chose this particular city for their rallies. They wanted to link themselves to that imperial past, to suggest they were the natural continuation of German greatness. The irony, of course, is that Allied bombing destroyed 90% of the Old Town in January 1945. What we were walking through was largely rebuilt after the war, stone by stone, using rubble from the destroyed buildings, a massive undertaking that took decades.
Local Flavors and Honest Conversations
After exploring the distinctive layout of Old Town, Andreas recommended a great Franconian restaurant, Wirtshaus Hütt’n. The pork knuckle and red ale were delicious, and we had a wonderful time during lunch as he continued to share stories about how locals navigate their city’s complex legacy, proud of its medieval heritage while ensuring its darkest chapter is never forgotten.
Munich and Dachau Across Time and Memory
Arriving in Bavaria’s Capital
The last leg of our journey took us from Nuremberg to Munich, a 2.5-hour drive that felt like the beginning of the end. As the trip wound down, I realized I’d grown fond of the daily rhythm of packing up and hitting the road. What once felt like a chore had become part of the adventure itself.
Driving into the city, we were immediately struck by the sheer number of cyclists weaving through the streets. The mix of modern energy and historic architecture gave Munich a vibrant edge. After checking into our hotel, we each set off to explore different corners of the city, following our own curiosities.
Marienplatz
My path led me to Marienplatz, the beating heart of Munich’s old town. Surrounded by Gothic spires and bustling crowds, the square radiated energy. From there, I wandered into a traditional beer hall, where Bavarian cuisine and generous pours of local beer awaited.
One quirky tradition worth noting: if you’re a small party, expect to be seated with a larger group at the same table. It’s a cultural norm that can feel awkward at first, but it’s part of the communal spirit of Bavarian dining.
After indulging in more beer than I probably should have, I somehow managed to send an SOS message to my sister-in-law. On my way back to the hotel, I bumped into her and the rest of our group. In a twist of irony, we ended up at KFC, a fast-food detour that stood in hilarious contrast to the hearty Bavarian feast I’d just enjoyed.
Back at the hotel, my brother-in-law, sister-in-law, and I capped off the evening with one final drink at the bar. The bartender shared his own story, and it felt like the perfect closing note to a relaxed first night in Munich.
Dachau in Reflection
The next morning brought a complete tonal shift. While I couldn’t check everything off my Munich list, visiting Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site became the most significant part of my entire Germany trip.
Dachau holds a particular place in Nazi history, it was the first concentration camp, opened in March 1933, just weeks after Hitler came to power. Originally intended for political prisoners, it became the model for all other camps that followed. Heinrich Himmler appointed Theodor Eicke as commandant, and Eicke’s systematic brutality became the blueprint for the entire concentration camp system. The guards trained here would go on to run camps across Nazi-occupied Europe.
Walking Through Preserved Horror
The reconstructed barracks show the camp’s evolution, from housing 5,000 prisoners to cramming over 30,000 by 1945. The museum doesn’t soften the progression: early propaganda photos showing “humane” conditions versus the reality of forced labor, medical experiments, and mass murder. Over 200,000 prisoners passed through Dachau; at least 41,500 were murdered here.
The crematorium area hits especially hard. Built in 1942, it includes a gas chamber disguised as a shower room. While historians debate how extensively it was used for mass killings compared to camps like Auschwitz, its mere existence shows the infrastructure of genocide being perfected. Standing in that room, reading “Brausebad” (shower bath) above fake shower heads, knowing prisoners stood where you’re standing, it’s overwhelming.
“Never Again”: Survivor-Created Memorial
The International Memorial, designed by Yugoslav Holocaust survivor Nandor Glid, shows skeletal figures caught in barbed wire. The inscription in multiple languages reads “Never Again.” Former prisoners insisted on preserving Dachau as a warning, ensuring future generations could witness where hatred and dehumanization lead.
Practical Visit Information:
The memorial is easily accessible, a 20-minute S-Bahn ride from Munich followed by a short bus trip. I’d strongly recommend taking a guided tour. The historians who lead them provide crucial context you might miss on your own, like pointing out where the SS quarters were (now a Bavarian police training facility) and explaining how locals claimed they didn’t know what was happening despite the camp being clearly visible from town.
The Marienplatz, Rathaus-Glockenspiel
After our tour of Dachau, we made our way back to Marienplatz to watch the Rathaus-Glockenspiel, one of Munich’s most beloved attractions. Installed in 1908, this ornate clock features 43 bells and 32 life‑sized figures that reenact two Bavarian stories: a jousting tournament celebrating Duke Wilhelm V’s wedding in 1568, and the coopers’ dance commemorating the end of the plague in 1517. Each performance lasts about 12–15 minutes and concludes with a golden rooster crowing three times.
Crowds gather daily at 11 a.m. and 12 p.m., with an additional 5 p.m. show from March to October, making it a lively blend of history, tradition, and entertainment in the heart of the city. While the Glockenspiel carries plenty of history and tradition to appreciate, my wife and I couldn’t help but laugh at the crowds oohing and ahhing. The old, weathered mechanics are charming, but there’s nothing about them that truly warrants such “amazement.”
Law Library Tour
Our timing worked out seamlessly, just as the Glockenspiel finished, we strolled a short distance to the New City Hall for a tour of its historic Law Library. Tucked inside the Town Hall, this is not only a photogenic gem but also a working library still used by scholars and students today. Popularized by TikTok and Instagram, the space feels straight out of a fairytale. Its Art Nouveau design, wrought‑iron spiral staircases, and towering shelves of books have made it a favorite stop for visitors chasing that “Hogwarts” or Beauty and the Beast vibe. Access is only possible through guided tours, which makes the experience feel all the more special.
Things we missed!
With only a day and a half in Munich, my ambitious list quickly collided with reality. The Munich Residenz, the sprawling palace that housed Bavarian monarchs for centuries, went unseen. So did Nymphenburg Palace, the “Castle of the Nymphs,” with its vast baroque gardens. I had hoped to wander the English Garden and watch locals surf the Eisbach wave, yes, river surfing in the middle of Munich has been a tradition since the 1970s, but time slipped away. Poor planning meant I also missed climbing to the top of the Frauenkirche or St. Peter’s Church for panoramic views, pity.
If you go, plan for more than a half‑day just around Marienplatz alone. Between the Glockenspiel, the churches, and the surrounding sights, you’ll want the extra time to truly take it all in.
Reflections On Our German Journey
Germany delivered everything we hoped for, castles, gorges, rich history, and beautiful landscapes. While we sometimes found the locals dismissive (that famous German directness can feel harsh), there were also moments of genuine warmth. We even met a street vendor from Guatemala who’d traveled the world before settling in Germany as his permanent residence, his story alone was worth the conversation.
Austria, though, completely won us over. We’re already planning a return trip to that converted mill loft in Hallstatt.
After 18 days of constant movement through four countries, what stays with me isn’t just the famous sights but the rhythm of the journey itself, the daily packing that became routine, the unexpected detours that became highlights, and the family dynamics that added complexity but also depth to every experience. Sometimes the best trips aren’t the smoothest ones, but the ones that push you out of your comfort zone and leave you with stories worth telling.